Monday, June 2, 2014

Impressions of Athlone

"Locals" in Athlone
Each time I visit Athlone, I find it an interesting place; however, over the last several years I have noticed an appreciable decline. At first glance, a relatively new KFC seems out of place but, upon reflection, it is probably symptomatic of the economic difficulties of the city. Athlone is a mixture of nice, neat houses with pretty gardens alongside derelict homes and boarded properties. Some businesses thrives, while others experience more difficult times. Walking through the city center there are many vacant shop fronts. There was a building diagonally from the Arch House B&B that had recently burnt the last time I was here. The building has been dismantled, but a fence still surrounds the site. It now has anti-capitalism literature affixed to it.
Road marker 
Yet for all the problems of the city, it still retains very interesting features. Along with fascinating churches, a castle, and Sean’s Pub, there are many historical artifacts that dot the city. I stumbled on one quite by accident. A weathered mile marker, which reads “Dublin 60, Ballinastoe 12,” sits seemingly forgotten on Irishtown Street (An Baile Gaelach). Despite internet searches I have yet to turn up any information about.

Former Midlands Great Western Station 
Railroad Bridge
More celebrated is the abandoned Midlands Great Western Station. From August 1851 until January 1985 this was the primary railroad station for the city. The former station is now used for offices and storage while some of the other buildings in the complex sit derelict. Adjacent to the station, crossing the River Shannon, is the Railway Bridge, a slender and sleek bridge that was built in 1850-51. Originally the middle section of the bridge opened up so that twice a year yachts could pass through on the way to Lough Ree to take part in a regatta. In the 1970s this feature was removed; however, the bridge remains as one of the symbols of the industrial past of Athlone.
Coosan Tavern
Of course like many Irish towns, there are several pubs. Of course, the most famous is Sean’s Pub. Coosan Tavern, outside the center of the city, displays the advertising battle between Guinness and Heineken. The oddly named Nuts Corner displays some of the more traditional Guinness advertising that is fun to find across Ireland.

Finally, while on a walk in the canal area I saw this water tower off in the distance. On my final afternoon in Athlone I set off to find it and walked through some decidedly non-tourist areas. Nevertheless, with not too much trouble, I made my way through Battery Heights and photographed what I think is an odd-looking tower.
Guinness Advertisement
at Nuts Corner




Water tower at Battery Heights 



Sunday, June 1, 2014

Shannon Bank Nature Trail Walk

The trail near Magazine Road and Cherryfield Avenue.The By-Pass Canal is visible in the foreground, while therailroad tracks and abandoned buildings, once associated with the former Midland Great Western Train Station,is in the background. 
This five kilometer trail begins on the west bank of the River Shannon, eventually meandering along the Athlone By-Pass Canal (constructed in 1757) and ends in the Big Meadow (An Chluain Mór), along the shore of the Shannon just south of the city.  While the trail skirts the west end of the city, and traverses several neighborhoods, for the most part it is a peaceful and relaxing walk with many opportunities to see birds and wildlife. The primary objective of the trail is to highlight the natural beauty of the area; however, there are several human enterprises that catch the eye as well. The trail takes the walker by the famous railway bridge that traverses the Shannon, pretty houses and interesting neighborhoods.

A Moorhen roosting on a rowboat along the canal. 

An unidentified bird along the shores of the Shannon

A fellow traveler on the trail

Saturday, May 31, 2014

Sean’s Pub (Athlone)

In the shadow of the Adamson Castle, there is a small traditional Irish pub called Sean’s. It has the distinction of the claiming to be the oldest pub in Ireland, which in 2004 was certified by the Guinness Book of World Records. Circa 1680, the pub was known as “The Three Blackamoor” and that name is still used on the front of the bar as well; however, an even older name suggests that it was called Luain’s Inn. There is a display case in the bar that shows the wattle and wicker used in the walls of the pub that were uncovered during renovations in 1970s, which, according to carbon dating, suggests that the building was constructed circa 900 AD. Going into Sean’s is like stepping back into history, with some interesting variations. Although there are Irish men sitting in the bar, staring at one another, not saying anything, with their arms crossed, there are also German tourists, taking pictures of each other drinking Guinness with their cell phones.
The physical layout of the building and furnishings helps to give it a cozy feel as well as a sense of history. There are small tables with short stools and saw dust on the floor. A fireplace sits not too many steps from the front entrance. I judge the ceiling to be about 7.5-8 feet high. Over the bar, there are rods and reels, oars, and a hand fishing net fastened to the ceiling for decorative purposes. A collection of pipes mounted to a board hangs behind the bar. Automobile license plates from the United States adorn one section of the bar. A cacophony of newspaper articles, photographs and drawings adorn the walls, making it nearly impossible to find any empty spaces on the walls.
I came to make my periodic pilgrimage to have a Guinness in the old pub. It can take the bar staff up to four or five minutes to pull a pint for you. Sure they are busy, but the staff also practices the correct procedures in pulling a pint. On the Saturday night I made my visit, the patrons were convivial. In addition to the Irish men and German tourists, there were a number of couples having a drink and engaging in conversation. A dim roar of conversation was just audible above a mixture of Rod Stewart, the Corrs, and the Waterboys coming from the speakers. A young woman sitting at the bar, perhaps in her thirties, wearing a black top and pink scarf, sat next to her boyfriend/husband in a Ramones t-shirt and enthusiastically sang along with each of the songs. Occasionally someone will see me sitting by myself, writing in my notebook, and offer an acknowledgement. But I think this is because they feel sorry for me rather than a sense of communal engagement.


Friday, May 30, 2014

Stockholm’s Doors

Fridhemsgatan 18
I made a brief study of the doors to apartment flats in Stockholm during my walks. I find it fascinating that people who live in the blocks are able to walk through these remarkable portals each day. It is certain that to the residents it is a mundane activity and they rarely take notice of the decorations. After a while, most likely, I would not give it a thought either. But the diversity of door decorations is one of the small things that makes Stockholm interesting. Because I do not know anyone in Stockholm, these tantalizing doors are also a gateway to a hidden world. In my mind I assume that what lies behind the doors is as interesting as the doors themselves. Perhaps not. But the doors, nevertheless, area a gateway to an unseen world for most travelers.
Hantverkargatan 86


Banergatan 33

Thursday, May 29, 2014

Prague’s Main Railway Station

Fanta's Cafe 
Many people pass through Praha Hlavní Nádraží (Praha hl.n.) without ever knowing, or seeing, the grandeur of the building – and the repairs that need to be accomplished. Originally opened in 1871 and named the Franz Josef Station, the train station today is a bustling hub that as a modern feel; however, the main concourse built in the 1970s is built beneath an architectural gem. Last year Radio Prague did a feature story discussion the renovations and plans for the Fanta’s Café. The renovations look to be complete; however, the exterior of the building is not often seen by pedestrians is in desperate need of work. Fanta’s Café was originally completed in the first decade of the twentieth century. The art nouveau space has been beautifully restored and the stained glass windows is reminiscent of a Mucha painting.
Reliefs on the exterior of the building 
One can see that the exterior of the building was once exquisite as well. Yet time and neglect has seriously damaged the building. Without know the architectural significance or the fact that the main railway station is underneath, you might expect that the building was derelict and slated for demolition. The statues and reliefs on the exterior of the building, created by Ladislav Šaloun, who also created the famous Jan Hus statue on Old Town Square, are crumbling and in disrepair.

Outside: the state of the building
The first time I came to Prague it was through the central train station. I do not remember a lot of specifics, except in my mind the station was clearly influenced by the communist era. It was dark and drab. There were dire warnings to travelers about unauthorized taxis and swindlers who preyed on unsuspecting tourists. Today, the central station is much more in line with other European train stations. It is much lighter and has all the requisite newsstands and shops. But the real gem, like those of Grand Central Station and Thirtieth Street Station, is hidden for the curious to find. 



Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Berlin Zoo

Entrance to the Berlin Zoo
I have an ambivalent feeling about zoos as travel destinations. On one hand the animals are not free to roam their habitats and live a life that is natural to them. On the other, the animals are well-fed and protected from predators, disease and discomfort. With the decline of natural habitats, zoos around the world might be the place to save many species, at least until better solutions can be found. Nevertheless, over the years zoos have been an excellent place to take nieces, nephews and younger friends for an entertaining day out.
The Berlin Zoo opened on 1 August 1844 and was the first zoo in Germany, and the ninth in Europe. The animals were originally part of the menagerie of Prussian King Frederick William III. After his death, his heir (Frederick William IV) gave the animals and land for the construction of the zoo. After successful building campaigns and collection, the zoo faced a crisis during the Second World War. Prior to the war, the zoo had a population of 1196 mammals and 2516 birds. The zoo, along with the rest of Berlin, was heavily damaged and many buildings housing animals were destroyed. By the end of the war only ninety-one animals (mammals and birds) survived, including Knautschke, a male hippopotamus.
Born in in 1943, Knautschke was the only remaining hippo in the zoo after the war and became a favorite among visitors as a symbol of survival amongst the ruins of Berlin. It made international headlines in the 1950s when Knautschke was reunited with his mate Grete from the Leipzig zoo for breeding purposes. He lived until 1988 when he was seriously injured by his own son (Nantes) and had to be euthanized. The seemingly quixotic monument to Knautschke is a statue that stands at a heavy-used intersection of the park, just outside the hippopotamus enclosure.
The statue of Knautsche
Knautschke remains highly popular at the Berlin Zoo, at least his statue does. While I waited patiently to take a picture of him, many children came running out of nowhere to climb on him and have, what appeared to be, an obligatory photography by doting parents. At one point I had been waiting for a while when a father placed his two children on Knautschke’s back for the second time (the first time he had taken pictures while other children were on the great hippo as well). He fumbled with his camera/phone, snapped a picture and then disaster occurred. He was talking to his daughter who I assume was about four years old, when his three year old son tried to get down, slid off the back of Knautschke and landed face first on the mulch surrounding the statue. There was a hesitation, and then the three year old let out a deafening scream. When his father picked him up, the little boy’s face and nose were a mixture of mulch and blood. Another father, who was pushing an empty pram, came running over with a travel-sized package of tissues and to offer support. A while later, I saw the father, no doubt, explaining the situation to the children’s mother via the same phone he so anxiously took the fateful photograph. There was a look of panic in his eyes.
500-year old English Oak
Given the devastation of the war, it is amazing when any objects of being survived the Second World War in Berlin. As such, that a 500-year old tree still survives in the zoo is amazing. The English Oak, also near the hippopotamus pen, is estimated to have begun growing in 1480 and survived the founding and growth of the park, as well as the war. Today the oak is the oldest tree in the zoo and very much alive; however, it has lost its crown. Thus, its days are likely numbered.
Bobby the Gorilla
Germans have long been known for revering and commemorating animals.  At the entrance to the zoo there is a statue of Bobby the Gorilla (1928-1935) who inspired the popular song, Mein Gorilla hat ‘en Villa im Zoo (My Gorilla Has a Villa in the Zoo). A sculpture of a group of polar bears, created in 1930, forms a gathering place near cafes and food stands adjacent to the exit of the park. My real objective for the trip was to find the memorial statue of Knut, the young polar bear that captured the world’s attention a few years ago. After winning the hearts of many people around the world, his tragic death was a shock and a year later the Berlin Zoo unveiled the tribute in his honor. I, like many people, was captivated by the pictures of the young polar bear. I even have a small plastic polar bear on a window seal that I refer to as Knut.
Eisbär (Polar Bear) - not Knut 
My Sunday morning at the zoo, by myself, made me think a lot about the purpose of such a venue. One of the first things I saw in the zoo was a little boy, of about six or seven years, who clearly has a fascination for things that reminded me of myself. When I saw him, he was at the flamingo pen dutifully copying the information that was provided on the sign. Meanwhile his parents and younger siblings looked on. After I spotted him, I immediately went to the nearest shaded park bench to write a brief note about what I had observed in my journal. Perhaps what that little boy and I record in our journals are different, but I understand and respect his motivation. For this little boy, the zoo was a source of inspiration.

Animals, especially our pets, are a central part of our lives. When I travel this comes into sharp focus; I miss my own and I see how many people in Europe walk and tote their dogs around (presumably, most house cats are too cool and disinterested to walk around European cities). Monument and memorials to famous animals are not uncommon. For example, the monument to Martha, the last known passenger pigeon, at the Cincinnati Zoo is particularly moving.  In an era where we are experiencing a mass extinction of several species, the practice of memorializing animals might become even more common. 



Tuesday, May 27, 2014

A frequent and faithful stop

Each year when I travel to Berlin, inevitably I visit the same place: the launderette in Wilmersdorf. There is a reason: it is clean, convenient and I have figured out how to use it. The establishment is more high tech than most because it has a central board where on pays money and controls the machines. In many ways I look forward to this stop because I can have clean clothes and regroup for the next portion of the trip.
Over the past eight years, or so, I have patronized this particular laundry mat, the same man has managed (or owned) the business. Although he is stern and somewhat severe, he is always kind and gracious to people who need help. But for people who do not follow his rules (some of which are unwritten) he offers pointed advice and directions. Once, several years ago, he chastised me for placing the wheels of my suitcase on a table used for folding laundry. I understand why as this helps to keep the place clean and prevents clean laundry from becoming dirty. Nevertheless, I was a little embarrassed by his chastisement.

During my visit this year an incident between the manager and an elder man escalated. The conversation, in German, was heated and rapid enough that I did not understand what the disagreement was about. A younger German-speaking customer, folding his laundry, kept shaking his head in disagreement each time the elderly man spoke. I reflected as I finished folding my own laundry that the manager’s actions were why I came back each year. He provides a clean comfortable place that is helpful and comfortable for his clients. It is one of the small charms of my Berlin sojourns.