Sean’s Pub (Athlone)

In the shadow of the Adamson Castle, there is a small traditional Irish pub called Sean’s. It has the distinction of the claiming to be the oldest pub in Ireland, which in 2004 was certified by the Guinness Book of World Records. Circa 1680, the pub was known as “The Three Blackamoor” and that name is still used on the front of the bar as well; however, an even older name suggests that it was called Luain’s Inn. There is a display case in the bar that shows the wattle and wicker used in the walls of the pub that were uncovered during renovations in 1970s, which, according to carbon dating, suggests that the building was constructed circa 900 AD. Going into Sean’s is like stepping back into history, with some interesting variations. Although there are Irish men sitting in the bar, staring at one another, not saying anything, with their arms crossed, there are also German tourists, taking pictures of each other drinking Guinness with their cell phones.

The physical layout of the building and furnishings helps to give it a cozy feel as well as a sense of history. There are small tables with short stools and saw dust on the floor. A fireplace sits not too many steps from the front entrance. I judge the ceiling to be about 7.5-8 feet high. Over the bar, there are rods and reels, oars, and a hand fishing net fastened to the ceiling for decorative purposes. A collection of pipes mounted to a board hangs behind the bar. Automobile license plates from the United States adorn one section of the bar. A cacophony of newspaper articles, photographs and drawings adorn the walls, making it nearly impossible to find any empty spaces on the walls.

I came to make my periodic pilgrimage to have a Guinness in the old pub. It can take the bar staff up to four or five minutes to pull a pint for you. Sure they are busy, but the staff also practices the correct procedures in pulling a pint. On the Saturday night I made my visit, the patrons were convivial. In addition to the Irish men and German tourists, there were a number of couples having a drink and engaging in conversation. A dim roar of conversation was just audible above a mixture of Rod Stewart, the Corrs, and the Waterboys coming from the speakers. A young woman sitting at the bar, perhaps in her thirties, wearing a black top and pink scarf, sat next to her boyfriend/husband in a Ramones t-shirt and enthusiastically sang along with each of the songs. Occasionally someone will see me sitting by myself, writing in my notebook, and offer an acknowledgement. But I think this is because they feel sorry for me rather than a sense of communal engagement.