Holy Trinity (Old Swedes) Church

Not many people think of Sweden as a major player in the development of colonial North American; however, from Philadelphia, through southern New Jersey, into northern Delaware, Swedish immigrants came to the New World and established thriving communities. The relationship between the Swedes and the native Lenape Indians was generally good and the colony was generally accepting of all people. Although there is a major museum in Philadelphia, and a few smaller museums in the region, the history of Swedish colonies is virtually unknown to most Americans. During our visit to the church, one of the guides noted that Swedes had been in the region long before William Penn came.

Holy Trinity Church of Wilmington, Delaware, located along the banks of Brandywine Creek and the Christina River, is evidence of that Swedish-American history. The congregation of the church dates back to 1640. The current stone church was built in the burial grounds of Fort Christina beginning in 1697, at the direction of Eric Björk a young pastor sent from Sweden by the King. The church was dedicated on Holy Trinity Sunday, 4 July 1699, making it the only 17th-century church still operating as a congregation in the United States. 

Thinking about Holmes and Experiences

As this year’s sojourn to Europe comes to an end, I refer back to my old literary friend Sherlock Holmes. In The Adventure of the Red Circle, Holmes reminds his friend that, “Education never ends, Watson.” With that I am reminded that in each new travel experience we are exposed to new things and increase our knowledge and understanding of the world. Perhaps this is why I (and many others) enjoy travel so much, because it is a high dosage of education. Why else navigate alternative transportation options to spend less than twenty-four hours in Malmö?  Because it is an opportunity to see something new, to experience other things, to learn something.

At the airport in Copenhagen, there is a commemorative display to Danish writer, and national hero, Hans Christian Andersen. The display notes that Anderson made more than thirty trips outside Denmark in his life. This had a profound effect on Andersen and he wrote that travel enriched him and made him happy. In The Fairy Tale of My Life (1855), he concluded, “To travel is to live.”

These nineteenth century literary references tells us of the importance of discovery, experience and knowledge. While phenomena of travel and discovery has substantially changed from the nineteenth century, the basic human need to learn and explore has not. Yet, we would do well to remember that the act of travelling does not require us to go far. It is a state of mind. Any journey, even as short as fifteen minutes, can be a travel experience. It depends on the sojourner’s attitude: Are we willing to see something new? Willing to explore? To learn something?

It is also worth noting that Doyle has Holmes quote Shakespeare near the end of the Red Circle: “Journeys end in lovers meeting.”

Endangered Species 2014

Following a post from last year about the declining number of telephone booths and postal boxes, particularly in the United Kingdom, I found some more examples. This time the condition of each seems more aesthetic than functional. In both Stockholm and Malmö I came across these Rikstelefon booths (neither actually had telephones in them). The booths were located in the old town sections of each of the respective cities.

Stockholm

Malmo

Moate

Additionally, in Moate, Ireland, I found this Victorian era mail slot that was no longer in use. My journeys also took me to the Postal Museum in Stockholm, where I observed several interesting specimens of postal history. In one room a quote about stamp collecting from Charles J. Phillips was painted on the wall: “The King of Hobbies and the Hobby of Kings” (1936). Given the decline in mailed letters and letter writing, and the use of personalized stamps, it seems doubtful whether philatelic pursuits would be popular in the future.  

Stockholm’s Doors

Fridhemsgatan 18

I made a brief study of the doors to apartment flats in Stockholm during my walks. I find it fascinating that people who live in the blocks are able to walk through these remarkable portals each day. It is certain that to the residents it is a mundane activity and they rarely take notice of the decorations. After a while, most likely, I would not give it a thought either. But the diversity of door decorations is one of the small things that makes Stockholm interesting. Because I do not know anyone in Stockholm, these tantalizing doors are also a gateway to a hidden world. In my mind I assume that what lies behind the doors is as interesting as the doors themselves. Perhaps not. But the doors, nevertheless, area a gateway to an unseen world for most travelers.

Hantverkargatan 86

Banergatan 33

Sunny Stockholm

Stockholm City Hall

Life in in Stockholm during the summertime is sweet. I have been told that nine months of darkness makes Stockholmers revel in the few months of light and warmth. Since the city sits at nearly 60 latitude, long shadows makes the light play tricks, it soften colors, creating a seeming Kodachrome world. A week’s worth of fatigue and months of stress, take their toll and the words are difficult to summons. But the effects of the light are subtle and noticeable.

Many locals probably take the light for granted, but not the pleasant summer evenings. The cafes are full; people sit outside and stare at water fountains and flowers. People bask in the sun, which is neither too hot nor strong.

"Fabeldjur"
(Fable Animals / Fabulous Beast)

As the sun begins its long begins dip into the Western sky, a cool breeze reminds us that we are still in the north. Despite the temptation to dress as if a permanent heat wave is approaching, the cool nights, no doubt, reminds residents that this glorious summer is temporary and fleeting. Adam of Bremen, an 11th century chronicler, wrote: “Sweden is the most bountiful land in all the world; its soil is fat and fecund of grain and honey.” I think Adam may have visited in the spring or summer, but I appreciated his sentiments. While the winter may eventually come we should all take the example of the Swedes and live life to the fullest when we can. 

A Life Called Stockholm

I was chatting with a couple of American women on the street in Stockholm and they were telling me of their enthusiasm for the city. They made a comment that I have heard many Americans make about Stockholm, “It’s so clean and orderly!” It is true; for a major city, it is remarkable how little litter there is, graffiti is at a minimum and the parks and public spaces are well maintained. Stockholm is what we want a city to be: Pretty, clean, easy to navigate and full of cultural and entertainment options. In short, it is a place where life is good. Of course, Stockholm is not utopia; however, it entices many of us with its charm, way of life and, at least during the summer, the weather. It does not hurt that Stockholm is spread across fourteen islands. Thus, there is always waterfronts and beautiful vistas seemingly just around the corner.

In a recent New York Times blog post, Thomas B. Edsall posed the question, “Why Can’t America Be Sweden?” The post was primarily about economics and the future of the social welfare state, which, no doubt, plays a role in the appeal of the city. But the question is a long-standing one: how can the Swedes have it and not us? The area in which I stayed on this trip (Fridhemsplan) is primarily a residential neighborhood, with cafes, parks and playgrounds. I could not help but notice how many people had a wry smile as I passed them on the street. Perhaps it was the fabulous weather as we approached the midsummer holiday. Yet I perceive something more. Pairs of individuals often emerged from the local supermarket sharing the load of grocery bags by each person holding one of the handles of the shopping bags as they walked down the street. Scandinavia, and Sweden in particular, is famous for its consensus-building and cooperation (see the post on rebuilding Bodø). This aspect of Scandinavian political life has drawn the ire of several American politicians, notably President Eisenhower. But nonetheless, Scandinavians are happy and satisfied, by in large, and the envy of many.

I know it is dangerous to draw conclusions based on limited observations, but visitors sense the aspects of the good life when they come to Stockholm. 

One More Dog Story from This Trip

It is a misnomer to say that it is only the British who love dogs. I have noticed, in virtually every city on this trip, people out walking dogs despite inclement weather. Many Europeans, not just the British, love their canine friends. As evidence, consider this 1904 stain glass window in Tyska kyrkan (The German Church of Stockholm). As the family gathers to give thanks for their meal, their faithful dog remains sufficiently reverential in waiting for his/her dinner. The sharp eye might notice the bird in the birdcage in the background, but there is no doubt the dog figures more prominently.