A Brief Stop in Poughkeepsie

 

Poughkeepsie Train Station

Another cloudy and cold day, and because I did not check the emails from Amtrak, we arrived at the train station two hours early. While walking in town, I heard the fragment of a conversation where one man said to another that afterhours he could spend a night somewhere, that he should not be sleeping outside in this weather. At least he would be warm and get some sleep. Several people I saw in town looked like they struggled with the basics.

There are hints that life in Poughkeepsie was once better. For instance, the Bardavon Theater, built in 1869, continues to screen movies – albeit classic films, rather than first-run features.

I stopped in at The Poughkeepsie Grind to get us a coffee and hot chocolate. Despite the bleak weather, and the state of the town, the people in the coffee shop were festive and happy. The holidays were approaching and there was a sense of relief and celebration among the patrons.

The Poughkeepsie Grind

The train station in Poughkeepsie was once a small-town treasure, it is still a nice a pleasant place to start an adventure although many are commuting from it for a day’s work. We sat across from a man who had missed an earlier train and was passing the time talking to a friend about movies and music. He noted that he had worked at a record store while in college and, therefore, had listened to a lot of bad music in the 1970s. My attention drifted as I was more attuned to my Poughkeepsie Grind coffee and the latest stories that purported to be news. His severe critique of the band America, their only hit in his estimation was “A Horse with No Name,” was emblematic of their entire catalog, suggesting that all their songs were with no name. It made me smile, and I returned to the news on my phone. The conversation continued with him thinking that “Dust in the Wind,” might have been one of their songs. Not meaning to interrupt, I instinctively shook my head no and he saw me. The tilt of his head and raised eyebrows inquired me. “Kansas,” I noted was the band instead I said apologetically, it was a popular song in my circle when I was a kid. Had he not been on the phone I would have added that the tendency to name bands after geographic locations, Kansas, American, Boston, meant that they were easily confused. After he ended the phone call and got ready to board his train, he looked at me and shook his head, “I listened to a lot of bad music in the seventies.”

Salt Point Brewery

 

Located not far from Cayuga Lake and Ithaca, this popular brewery utilizes the outdoor setting as well as local farmers and producers for its craft food and beer. The snack board, a modified charcuterie, is a mixture of local cheeses, olives, seeds, dried fruit, and cured meats. Even though we chose the Margherita, the wood-fired sourdough pizzas are interesting and unique. (For example, the pizza special on the night we were there was a peach and pork belly pizza.) For dessert, we had the excellent Nutella burdino, which immediately demanded a recipe search.

Uncle Hazy IPA

My beer of choice was Uncle Hazy IPA (6.5% ABV), definitely hazy with a slight bitter edge. I liked it enough to take a 4-pack home.

Nutella budino

The atmosphere is lively and convivial, making it difficult, especially on a Friday evening, to find a seat to have dinner.

Address: Salt Point Brewery, 6 Louise Bement Ln, Lansing, NY 14882

 

Cinema Additions: August 2023

 Additions to my cinema collection: 

Midway Drive-In Theatre (Minetto, New York)

Opened on 18 July 1948, with the feature It Happened on Fifth Avenue (1947). The screen was destroyed in 2014 by a storm, rebuilt and once again showing films.

Address: 2475 State Route 48, Minetto, NY 13115

 

An old Love Bug sits in the field beside the viewing area

Smith Opera House (Geneva, New York)

Built in 1894 as an opera house and vaudeville theater. Became a full-fledged movie house on 17 March 1931, when renamed the Geneva Theater with Parlor, Bedroom and Bath (193x) with Buster Keaton.  Part of the Schine Circuit of the cinemas. Listed as the Geneva Theatre in 1955 CD.

Address: 82 Seneca Street, Geneva, NY 14456

Smith Opera House (August 2023)

 

Regent Theatre (Geneva, NY)

Opened 25 October 1915, the Regent Theatre is now a tasting room for the Twisted Rail Brewing Company. Toward the end of its run as a cinema, it was briefly known as the Jones Theater. Architect: Leon Lempert, Jr.

Also listed in the 1955 city directory was the Temple Theatre, which was located at 415 Exchange Street in Geneva. It has been demolished and, in 2023, was a parking lot.

Address: 499 Exchange Street (Geneva, NY)

Regent Theatre, in 2023 as the Twisted Rail Brewing Company

 

Avon Theatre (Canastota, New York)

Opened as the Sherwood Theater circa 1914. In 1931 Ralph Balducci took over ownership. By 1941 the theater changed its name to the Avon. It closed in 1981.

Feature at the Canastota Erie Canal Museum. Was the site for the world premier of Chad Hanna (1940), starring Henry Ford and Dorothy Lamour, on Christmas Day. It was based novel by Walter D. Edmonds about a boy from Canastota who runs away to join the circus.

The Avon Theater was on the same site as the Bruce Opera House, which was destroyed in a fire in 1911.

Address: 121 South Peterboro Street, Canastota, NY

 

Sampson Theatre (Penn Yan, NY)

Opened on 12 October 1910. Closed circa 1929. Currently undergoing renovations for a reopening for local theater productions.

Address: 130 East Elm Street, Penn Yan, NY

 

Sampson Theatre in 2023

Historical marker

Keuka Outlet Trail

 

Seneca Falls 

Waterfalls abound in the Finger Lakes Region, with some being hard to access. But the 6.4-mile Keuka Outlet Trail makes access to two falls relatively easy. The trail, which is a former towpath and short-line railroad track, runs between the towns of Penn Yan and Dreden, New York, and links Keuka and Seneca Lakes. It follows, closely, the course of the Crooked Lake Canal, which was built between 1830 and 1833 and its name was derived from the former name of Keuka Lake. The canal used wooden locks that necessitated replacements with stone eventually. In the early 19th century, several mills dotted the outlet and sparked economic development in the region. The canal was abandoned in 1877 and later replaced by a rail line that followed much the same route. It was destroyed by the flooding that resulted from Hurricane Agnes in 1972.

Our walk along the trail was nice, but a particularly wet and muggy week meant that there were bugs aplenty. Our trust bug spray prevented bites, but not the bothersome swarms in front of our faces. We parked in the lot for Seneca Falls and walked the quarter mile upstream to see it. Remnants of equipment and machinery were prominent but did not detract from the view. Such a nice day, we decided to walk the 1.25 miles the opposite way to see Cascade Fall. The cyclists going downhill at high speeds were sometimes annoying to avoid, but as the path went from asphalt to gravel this became less of a problem. As we emerged from the canopy into the park, the clouds had increased. A man who was standing beside his bike gave me one of those looks and nodded to the sky behind me. It was dark and foreboding. I acknowledged the looming rain and shrugged my shoulders. We took a few pictures. A light rain started to fall, which quickly turned to a downpour. We sought refuge in a picnic shelter for about 20 minutes until the rain passed.

Whistle signal along the short-line railroad track that was destroyed in 1972

Cascade Falls

Prior to the arrival of Europeans, the territory was home to the Haudenosaunee (as the Seneca called themselves). They were the western most group of what was called the Iroquois Confederacy, and are matrilineal based society. Their claim to the oldest participatory democracy, one studied by Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson, is well supported. Some Haudenosaunee women befriended Elizabeth Stanton, Matilda Gage, and Lucretia Mott, and were thought to have had an influence on early suffragist organizations that would coalesce in nearby Seneca Falls.

The farmstand at the Orr-chards 

After our walk, we followed Outlet Road west and stopped at the picturesque Orr-chard’s Produce Stand to purchase honey and have some nostalgia. Although there were drinks and refreshments for sale, we had plenty of water and were anxious to have lunch in Penn Yan. Yet, the charm of the stand could not keep us from stopping.

We had a late lunch at the Keuka Restaurant in Penn Yan, which served a very good lobster bisque. The town, where some people lived in some desperate house, was overall a quaint little place. Its rather odd named comes from Pennsylvania and Yankee, because the early residents migrated there from the state to the south and the New England region.

 

Cortland NY Post Office

 

“Valley of the Seven Hills” (1943), a painted wooden relief, by Ryah Ludins.

88 Main St., Cortland, NY

Rome (NY) Post Office

 

“Barn Raising” (1942) by Wendell Jones.

Currently displayed in the lobby of the City Hall, 198 Washington Street, Rome, NY. The original site of the then new post office is the current home of the Rome Historical Society.

side panel

Canastota Post Office

 

“The Onion Field” (1942) by Alison Mason Kingsbury.

118 S Peterboro St., Canastota, NY 

The Glens

 

Watkins Glen State Park

Sometimes there are words in English that we take for granted and do not ponder the etymology or full meaning of it. Glen, a term used to describe narrow valley in the mountain districts of Scotland and Ireland, was one of those words for me. Since the appearance of the word in English in the sixteenth century, it has been applied further afield, including in the Finger Lakes region of New York.

Voted as the third-best state park in the United States in 2015, Watkins Glen, with its many waterfalls and accessible location, is a popular destination. Its popularity has not detracted from its beauty, but the sheer volume of visitors can make the photographer frustration frustrated looking for the perfect shot of a waterfall. Long and narrow, the park encompasses the glen created by Glen Creek, which is a name that seems somehow redundant given the definition. The most popular trail in the park, the Gorge Trail, is a mile-and-a-half long and surveys 19 waterfalls. I do not think it enters most of the visitors’ minds that there is a 500-foor change in elevation over the course of the trail. Thus, at the upper end of the trail, bedraggled people who are not accustomed to walking, or wearing inappropriate shoes for the occasion, area readily evident struggling to finish the trail.

We drove the picturesque route between Seneca Falls and the village of Watkins Glen, not realizing that there was a lot of farmland and not many places to stop for services. As we approach the south end of Seneca Lake, we passed winery after winery, with an occasional brewery thrown in, with gorgeous views of the valley and the lake. One can only imagine that the weekends during the summer were incredibly busy. After research, I had decided to enter at the park’s upper entrance. A nice location, with large shade trees and away from the crowds of the main entrance. As a result, for the most part, we were walking against the line of people, downstream as it were. People could catch a tram from the upper parking lot to the main entrance, thus the traffic downstream was not as significance. We could enjoy the falls without increasing fatigue from a steady upward climb.

Arriving at the park’s main entrance, which is adjacent to the center of the village, signs illustrate the history of the park and area. The state park, as we know it today, was originally developed opened by George Freer, a private entrepreneur, with the marketing of newspaper editor Morvalden Ells, on 4 July 1863.   After another owner, the State of New York acquired the land in 1906, and took over the operation of the park in 1911. After a devastating flood in 1935, prompted by 12 inched of rainfall in three hours, the park was rebuilt by the Civilian Conservation Corps, which was largely responsible for the bridges and paths that walkers on the Gorge Trail use today.

Of course, prior to that, the land was part of the indigenous Seneca homelands, who fished and farmed the area as part of the larger Iroquois (Hodinöhsö:ni’) Confederacy.  With the arrival of European colonist, conflict and hardship ensued, and the land gradually became the possession of the white people. This history is recognized, no doubt belatedly, with a statue of a Seneca man and woman near the main entrance of the park.  

The South Rim trail would be an interesting walk because it is part of the 584-mile Fingers Lake Trail, running from the Catskills in the east to the Allegheny National Forest in western New York. But this would not have taken us back to our car. Instead, we decided to take the North Rim Trail back, which until recently known as “Indian Trail,” perhaps the name change is a nod toward more cultural sensitivity. The trail begins with steps that lead to the rim of the gorge with views of the creek and trail running below, then a gradual ascent back to our parking spot. It was devoid of most people; however, we encounter a few walking their dogs who are not allowed on the Gorge Trail. The trail offered an opportunity for quiet reflection that the rushing waters, with the adrenaline rush that inevitably develops, and the large number of people do not. Emerging from months of social distancing, it is difficult to transition back to crowded noisy places. Besides, we enjoyed the chipmunks darting back and forth and squealing in angst and nervousness as we approached.

After our hike we wandered in the village for a little while, finding an old movie theater, a depression era post office with its artwork removed, and a series of small shops. Working our way back toward Moravia and Skaneateles, we serendipitously saw Ithaca Falls and pulled over to explore. The creek supplied power to several industries in the early nineteenth century, and easily accessible by foot, but finding a parking spot was more challenging. A little further we stopped at a relaxing brewpub, Salt Point Brewing Company, for pizza and appetizers in the early evening.

Ithaca Falls (Ithaca, NY)

The following day found us at Fillmore Glen, a lesser known although intriguing state park in Moravia. Named after the thirteenth president of the United States, Millard Fillmore, the park sits near the southern end of Owasco Lake. Fillmore was president during the early 1850s and was the last person from the Whig party to serve in the office. Later, he joined and became a leading figure in the American Party as its nominee during the 1856 election. The party was popularly known as the “Know-Nothing” Party. The core tenants of the party were anti-immigrant and particularly anti-Catholic policies. During the time of increased Irish immigration, largely because of the 1840s Famine, the Know-Nothings sought to deny entry and citizenship fearing an undermining of American culture, religion, and wellbeing. When asked about nativism, party members were instructed to reply that they “knew nothing” of the particularly reprehensible views about Irish and Catholics.

The Cow Sheds' (Fillmore Glen State Park)

None of this history is recounted in the park. Instead, a replica cabin of Fillmore’s boyhood home sits largely disregarded by most visitors. The primary attraction of the park is the beautiful gorge, lightly traveled, with several waterfalls feeding Owasco Lake. In terms of states parks, Fillmore Glen is a nice counterpoint to Watkins Glen. Quiet, uncomplicated, with abiding beauty, it offers challenging hikes because of the landscape and the opportunity to observe and reflect.

The Glen Theater (Watkins Glen, NY)

 

The Glen Theater (June 2021)

Opened in 1924 and in operation well into the twenty-first century. The building next door was acquired for a second screen relatively recently. According to local sources, the cinema closed in 2019. When I visited in June 2021, it did not look permanently closed. But in the aftermath of the pandemic, it is difficult to discern what might happen.

The theater, which is just a few blocks from Seneca Lake, appears not to have been affected by the devastating fire that destroyed nearly half of the business district of the village in January 1934.

Colonial Theater (Moravia, NY)

 

The building that once housed the Colonial Theater at the corner
of Main and Church Streets in Moravia

Located on Main Street, the Colonial Theater was once located within this building. An advertisement from 1948 provides the only dates that I am aware of when the theater was open.

A longtime Moravia resident told me that when she was a little girl, she would go to the Colonial on Saturday afternoons to see a Western, “for next to nothing.”

An advertisement from the 1948 high school yearbook

Carpenter Falls

 

Sunday evenings, when I was a kid, was usually reserved for television with a bevy of family shows. Among my favorites was Mutual of Omaha’s Wild Kingdom with Marlin Perkins and Jim Fowler. Perkins was twenty-five years older than Fowler, and frequently the show seemed to suggest that the latter was doing most of the active work on the expeditions into the wild. I remember one comedian quip in Marlin’s voice, “I was making coffee, while Jim was wrestling an alligator.” Jim Fowler later insisted that it was erroneous to think that it was the case, instead saying that because there was only one camera filming the episodes.

Nevertheless, I could not help but think Marlin and Jim while we explored the Carpenter Falls near Skaneateles Lake. Carpenter Falls is a ninety-foot drop on Bear Swamp Creek, less than a mile before it empties into Skaneateles Lake. The creek cuts a deep gorge, making it and the falls hard to access. The access point for the falls is from Appletree Point Road, off NY41A. A small parking lot with no information has two paths running from it. The path seemingly offering the most direct access is treacherous, and near the falls, has a rope that acts as a makeshift handrail. While we could have attempted the dangerous steep descent into the gorge, returning via that path was not feasible. We returned to the parking area, less than a quarter of a mile, to take the other trail, a less direct path but more manageable. Although it was still step and a tumble into the gorge and creek was not out of the question.

Carpenter Falls

Once we accessed the creek, the only way to get an unobstructed view of the falls was by traversing the slippery rocks protruding from the creek. With only tennis shoes, Angie declined to get closer. Ever the one to try to get a better photograph, I hopped from rock to rock to get closer. Although the angle of sun made a great shot difficult, getting close and having the roar of the water ringing in my ears was great fun. Angie photographed me as I carefully navigated the rocks. In the middle of the creek, I was reminded how treacherous nature could be. Wedged between some rather large rocks, I espied the carcass, little more than the skin, of a red fox. What happened, I wondered. Did it get caught in the torrents of the water, or did its body simply wash into the creek? We, and our cats, lead sheltered lives I concluded.

Fungi growing on a log in the middle of the creek

After our adventurous trek, we wandered down Appletree Point Road toward Carpenters Point on the lake. The lightly used road took us by the adjacent farm fields. It was a pleasant walk on the last day of spring. Wildflowers and birdsong marked our post-falls exploration. There was no direct access to the lake without violating someone’s property, but it was a different way to experience the lake area.

Secluded and rural, the walk stood in contrast to the one through the gorge at Watkins Glen, where there where far more falls and people. This walk offered challenges but also time to reflect and enjoy as well.

Navigating the trail to the falls

Admiring the falls

Skaneateles Lake from Carpenters Point

Birdsfoot trefoil that lines the road

A song sparrow singing in the surrounding fields

Auburn-Fleming Trail (Auburn, NY)

 

Located southeast of the city of Auburn, New York, the Auburn-Fleming Trail is located on an abandoned railway bed that crosses steams and is surrounded by wetlands. Consequently, the insects can be particularly ferocious during the summer. This is the second time I walked the trail. The previous time in 2019, I did not encounter anyone on it. This time, I saw one runner who seemed as surprised to see me, as I him. Wildlife, too, are not used to human presence. I spooked a blue heron at one of the three creek crossing, which in turn startled me as well.

One of the small bridges using trestles from the railroad

Although at the northern terminus there is quite a bit of trash and debris, further from the beginning of the trail it seems hardly used. There are several signs within just a few feet of the trail asserting private property. The trail was part of an interurban trolley line and on the northern end several railroad ties are visible, partially buried. I like the trail because it feels remote, and unexplored. It is maintained by a snowmobile clubs, suggesting to me that reveals its primary use. But as I am an infrequent visitor, that could be an erroneous assertion.

Railroad ties barely protruding to the surface

Running for about one-and-one-half miles, the trail stretches south from Dunning Avenue in Auburn to NY Route 34 near Shumaker Crossing.

Colonial Theater (Skaneateles, NY)

 

Legg Hall was a portion of the second floor that was added to the existing building in 1868. It was used for traveling shows, local productions, basketball games, as well as for roller skating. As silent films became more popular across the country, the space became known as the Huxford Theater the 1910s. In 1940 or 1941, the theater changed its name to the Colonial and a new marquee was installed. After the Colonial was closed in 1977, the second floor was converted to condominiums and the marquee was removed. Today, the building look much like it did in the 1940s, although the façade of the building is somewhat obscured by the trees that line the sidewalk.

Moravia Post Office

 New Deal artwork: A sculpture from Kenneth Washburn in the Moravia, NY Post Office.

"In Moravia in 1819 Jethro Wood made the first successful all-metal plow" (1942)

United States Post Office, 100 South Main Street, Moravia, NY 13118

Lehigh Memory Trail (Williamsville, NY)

Train Station in Williamsville, NY

The essence of a rail trail is its historical connection with a railroad past. While trains transported goods and materials to new destinations, they also carried people further from their homes. I could not help but remember this when I arrived at the Lehigh Memory Trail, a short six-tenths of a mile path in Williamsville, New York. The renovated train station bore a reminder of the allure of passenger service with a sign that reminded passengers that Williamsville was 21 miles from Niagara Falls and 441 miles to New York City. Niagara Falls was a honeymoon destination for newlyweds, especially from metropolitan area, as made famous by the song, “Shuffle Off to Buffalo” in the film 42nd Street.

Glen Falls on Elliott Creek

Despite being 46° and windy, there were plenty of people on the trail, many of whom were walking dogs. Spring was in the air, and people and canine relished the opportunity to get out and stretch their legs. It being a short trail, I walked to the center of Williamsville, which is located on New York Route 5 a road that closely parallels the New York State Thruway. Near the center of town is Glen Falls, a beautiful waterfall that once supplied energy to the town, another connection to the past. Today, Williamsville is little more than a suburb of Buffalo, but it once had a vibrant past that is often obscured by layers of traffic and conglomerate commercial interests. I visited two establishments hoping for local flavor, a coffee shop and a bakery, which both turned out to be outposts for a larger chain. The historic architecture did not translate to locality today. It was difficult to find a gathering place, other than the local library, that was truly local.