The Glens

 

Watkins Glen State Park

Sometimes there are words in English that we take for granted and do not ponder the etymology or full meaning of it. Glen, a term used to describe narrow valley in the mountain districts of Scotland and Ireland, was one of those words for me. Since the appearance of the word in English in the sixteenth century, it has been applied further afield, including in the Finger Lakes region of New York.

Voted as the third-best state park in the United States in 2015, Watkins Glen, with its many waterfalls and accessible location, is a popular destination. Its popularity has not detracted from its beauty, but the sheer volume of visitors can make the photographer frustration frustrated looking for the perfect shot of a waterfall. Long and narrow, the park encompasses the glen created by Glen Creek, which is a name that seems somehow redundant given the definition. The most popular trail in the park, the Gorge Trail, is a mile-and-a-half long and surveys 19 waterfalls. I do not think it enters most of the visitors’ minds that there is a 500-foor change in elevation over the course of the trail. Thus, at the upper end of the trail, bedraggled people who are not accustomed to walking, or wearing inappropriate shoes for the occasion, area readily evident struggling to finish the trail.

We drove the picturesque route between Seneca Falls and the village of Watkins Glen, not realizing that there was a lot of farmland and not many places to stop for services. As we approach the south end of Seneca Lake, we passed winery after winery, with an occasional brewery thrown in, with gorgeous views of the valley and the lake. One can only imagine that the weekends during the summer were incredibly busy. After research, I had decided to enter at the park’s upper entrance. A nice location, with large shade trees and away from the crowds of the main entrance. As a result, for the most part, we were walking against the line of people, downstream as it were. People could catch a tram from the upper parking lot to the main entrance, thus the traffic downstream was not as significance. We could enjoy the falls without increasing fatigue from a steady upward climb.

Arriving at the park’s main entrance, which is adjacent to the center of the village, signs illustrate the history of the park and area. The state park, as we know it today, was originally developed opened by George Freer, a private entrepreneur, with the marketing of newspaper editor Morvalden Ells, on 4 July 1863.   After another owner, the State of New York acquired the land in 1906, and took over the operation of the park in 1911. After a devastating flood in 1935, prompted by 12 inched of rainfall in three hours, the park was rebuilt by the Civilian Conservation Corps, which was largely responsible for the bridges and paths that walkers on the Gorge Trail use today.

Of course, prior to that, the land was part of the indigenous Seneca homelands, who fished and farmed the area as part of the larger Iroquois (Hodinöhsö:ni’) Confederacy.  With the arrival of European colonist, conflict and hardship ensued, and the land gradually became the possession of the white people. This history is recognized, no doubt belatedly, with a statue of a Seneca man and woman near the main entrance of the park.  

The South Rim trail would be an interesting walk because it is part of the 584-mile Fingers Lake Trail, running from the Catskills in the east to the Allegheny National Forest in western New York. But this would not have taken us back to our car. Instead, we decided to take the North Rim Trail back, which until recently known as “Indian Trail,” perhaps the name change is a nod toward more cultural sensitivity. The trail begins with steps that lead to the rim of the gorge with views of the creek and trail running below, then a gradual ascent back to our parking spot. It was devoid of most people; however, we encounter a few walking their dogs who are not allowed on the Gorge Trail. The trail offered an opportunity for quiet reflection that the rushing waters, with the adrenaline rush that inevitably develops, and the large number of people do not. Emerging from months of social distancing, it is difficult to transition back to crowded noisy places. Besides, we enjoyed the chipmunks darting back and forth and squealing in angst and nervousness as we approached.

After our hike we wandered in the village for a little while, finding an old movie theater, a depression era post office with its artwork removed, and a series of small shops. Working our way back toward Moravia and Skaneateles, we serendipitously saw Ithaca Falls and pulled over to explore. The creek supplied power to several industries in the early nineteenth century, and easily accessible by foot, but finding a parking spot was more challenging. A little further we stopped at a relaxing brewpub, Salt Point Brewing Company, for pizza and appetizers in the early evening.

Ithaca Falls (Ithaca, NY)

The following day found us at Fillmore Glen, a lesser known although intriguing state park in Moravia. Named after the thirteenth president of the United States, Millard Fillmore, the park sits near the southern end of Owasco Lake. Fillmore was president during the early 1850s and was the last person from the Whig party to serve in the office. Later, he joined and became a leading figure in the American Party as its nominee during the 1856 election. The party was popularly known as the “Know-Nothing” Party. The core tenants of the party were anti-immigrant and particularly anti-Catholic policies. During the time of increased Irish immigration, largely because of the 1840s Famine, the Know-Nothings sought to deny entry and citizenship fearing an undermining of American culture, religion, and wellbeing. When asked about nativism, party members were instructed to reply that they “knew nothing” of the particularly reprehensible views about Irish and Catholics.

The Cow Sheds' (Fillmore Glen State Park)

None of this history is recounted in the park. Instead, a replica cabin of Fillmore’s boyhood home sits largely disregarded by most visitors. The primary attraction of the park is the beautiful gorge, lightly traveled, with several waterfalls feeding Owasco Lake. In terms of states parks, Fillmore Glen is a nice counterpoint to Watkins Glen. Quiet, uncomplicated, with abiding beauty, it offers challenging hikes because of the landscape and the opportunity to observe and reflect.