During the middle of rush hour traffic
on a Friday afternoon, I stood waiting to cross the street at 40th and Ninth
Avenue in Manhattan. A cacophony of horns blared as tempers flared; buses and automobiles
were trapped in an intractable tangle, suggestive that no one was getting home
early. Pedestrians stood transfixed by their phones, taking furtive glances to
secure safe passage. Above the intersection, sitting on a traffic light
standard, sat three pigeons looking down at the humans in their natural habitat.
Each new horn blast brought renewed attention to the traffic by the three. I
imagined one saying to another, “What is she doing?” to which the reply was, “Why
didn’t you remember your binoculars?”
Showing posts with label NYC. Show all posts
Showing posts with label NYC. Show all posts
Saturday, April 28, 2018
Wednesday, May 27, 2015
Wandering in Spandau
![]() |
| Statue of Joachim II outside St. Nicholas Church |
A
leisurely walk from the train station is St. Nicholas Church, one of the oldest
in Berlin. Dating from the first half of the 14th century, the
church is most famous as the site where, on 1 November 1539, Elector Joachim II
took communion under the Lutheran rite, which is both bread and wine. He was a
member of the house of Hohenzollern and Prince Elector of Brandenburg, one of
the most important principalities of the Holy Roman Empire. Joachim did not
officially convert to Lutheranism until 1555 for political reasons. The church,
well off the tourist track, has an interesting history aside from its role in
the Protestant Reformation and was a real treat for someone interested in
Lutheran heritage.
The
great thing about exploring on a holiday is that all the shops are closed and
there is very little pedestrian traffic. This meant that I could wander Spandau
without having a number of people rushing around completing their errands. Of
course, the downside is that many places are closed and, therefore, food, drink
and comfort options are limited.
![]() |
| Entrance to Zitadelle |
I
found a small park at Stresowplatz, where a sign indicated that the square had
once been a bustling business district. Now it is comprised mainly of apartment
blocks. Unfortunately, the sign was too badly damaged, with stickers and
graffiti, to be able to decipher.
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| An unidentified bird in the undergrowth at the Zitadelle |
The
Woolworth chain began with its first store in Utica, New York in 1878, but did
not last long. Frank Whitfield Woolworth then moved his store to Lancaster,
Pennsylvania, where it thrived. Soon it became the most successful five and
dime store in the United States and the world. It was so successful that it
figured in the popular songs, such as, “I
Can’t Give You Anything But Love.”
The corporate headquarters, The Woolworth Building, at Broadway and Park Place,
is still one of the most iconic buildings in lower Manhattan.
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| The Woolworth in Spandau Berlin |
Thursday, January 15, 2015
Obscure New York
While New York is known for its famous attractions, what I
find interesting is the lesser known or hidden places in the city. There are
small monuments, markers, buildings and places that are not observed by most
who pass by. Here is a collection of some of my favorites from the past few
visits:
Placed prominently in the Old King Cole Bar and Saloon, the
hotel bar of the St. Regis Hotel, is a mural by Maxfield Parrish. The dark wood
interior and cozy atmosphere help to highlight the mural that sits behind the
bar. Commissioned by John Jacob Astor IV in 1906 and installed in 1932 the
painting allegedly pokes fun at Astor who was one of the most famous victims of
the Titanic.
As I have written before, public telephone booths are
increasing an endangered species. I can imagine a time when in heavy demand;
however, today these two on the first floor of the New York Public Library, still
provide a public service. In my imagination, a diligent researcher finds
his/her way to the telephone to ask a client or boss for further information.
Alas, most researchers would pick up their smart phone and text the question.
Once ubiquitous around the United States, fallout shelters
and signs have become increasingly difficult to find. Growing up I knew the
closest fallout shelter was at my elementary school. I later learned that it
would likely have done me no good as most of the shelters were woefully
inadequate, had insufficient food, and the water were often contained in leaky,
rusty cans. This fallout shelter entrance and sign on 52nd Street, near Third
Avenue, appears to have escaped remodeling and theft for now.
Tuesday, July 8, 2014
Milford, Pennsylvania
| Hotel Fauchere |
I stopped in Milford for lunch
and a short perambulation on a hot and humid, July afternoon. I had lunch at the
Milford Diner, which has a nostalgic
feel but has been substantially upgraded in recent years. Among the pictures and memorabilia hanging on
the wall is a photograph, signature and newspaper clipping of President Clinton.
He stopped at the diner in 2008 while campaigning for his wife Hillary during
the Democratic primaries. Perhaps even more interesting (and amusing) is another
picture frame that contains a photograph and explanation: A scoutmaster from a
Boy Scout troop took the boys for a meal in 1983. I am sure there is an
excellent story behind the photos and frame (which was not disclosed) and suspect there are many more
such stories around the walls of the diner.
| Bucolic Ann Street |
After lunch, I took a quick walk
around town. Among the more intriguing places was the Hotel Fauchére, established in 1852 as
a summer hotel. It quickly became famous for its French cuisine under the
direction of Louis Fauchére, the chef of Delmonico’s in New York City. Over the
years the hotel’s guests included three American presidents and a number of
actors, including Charlie Chaplin, Mary Pickford and Mae West.
| Village Diner, on US6 |
Walking in the residential
neighborhoods, many of the houses retain hitching posts for horses in the front
yards. The streets are quaint and charmingly kept. Walking the length of Ann
Street, there were many beautiful houses and yards. At
the end of the street, the petite Ethel Barckley Memorial Park is a beautiful
overlook of the Delaware River.
About three miles northwest of
town, near the 398 mile marker on US6, the Village Diner appears to be a great
classic diner.
Thursday, June 26, 2014
Hidden New York
Sunday, April 13, 2014
My Life with Trains (Part 1) Stations
Train stations are interesting
crossroads of people and artifacts of travel methods past. For many decades
trains travel opened up destinations to vast amounts of people. In an era of
unreliable automobiles and non-existent air travel, locomotives took people to
faraway places and opened new possibilities and horizons. These journeys often
started, or ended, in grand edifices that symbolized the importance of the
undertaking. These structures have fallen on hard times and many have
disappeared. Yet, those that remain give us a glimpse to the romantic world of
train travel.
I remember my first trip on
Amtrak, Louisville to Fort Lauderdale, but I do not remember the station in
Louisville very well. But vaguely I remember my parents talking about the
beauty of the train station and what a shame it was rarely used any more.
Today, train stations have become a fascination. I am only sorry that we, as a
country, do not get to utilize them much anymore. While there has been a
decline in railroads, at least some of the old railroad stations have survived.
| Grand Central (March 2014) |
Grand Central Station in New
York is iconic. One of my favorite
photographs is of the station in 1954 with sunlight pouring into the
station highlighting the smoke/smog and creating streams of light that shine
upon the people congregating on the main floor. Once someone wrote that we have
come to love and revere Grand Central Station because of the destruction of old
Penn Station. Recently, we watched an American
Experience documentary on Penn Station, which chronicled the engineering
feat and architectural glory of the former station. The station itself, which
was private property, was destroyed as the result of a business decision. Most
people lament the loss of the great landmark. Today
what serves as Penn Station, adjacent to Madison Square Garden, is an
inelegant structure that many revile.
| 30th Street Station (April 2014) |
| The Angel of Resurrection (1952) |
On the other hand, 30th Street Station
in Philadelphia is a gorgeous structure. Built between 1927 and 1933, it was
one of the last great train stations to be built. Despite its beautiful Art
Deco décor, perhaps the most distinctive feature of the station is the memorial
to those from the Pennsylvania Railroad who died during World War II, which is
stunning. Prominently displayed at the 29th Street exit the sculpture is
impossible to miss. Named “The Angel of Resurrection” (1952), by Walker
Hancock, it depicts the Archangel Michael lifting a deceased soldier from the
frames of war. As prominent as Hancock’s piece is, another work in the station is
interesting as well. “Spirit of Transportation” (1895), by Karl Bitter, was
originally placed at the Broad Street Station but moved to 30th Street in
1933. One detail that is worthy of note
is on the extreme right side of the sculpture a young boy holds a toy airship,
foretelling the development and utilization of air transportation eight years
prior to the successful flight of the Wright Brothers.
| Union Station (April 2014) |
For as often as I had visited
Chicago, it was only recently that I toured Union Station. My recent visit
coincided with the home opener of Wrigley Field on its 100th anniversary. Cubs
fans poured into the station from surrounding suburbs and made their way to
alternative transportation, usually CTA “L” Trains, to complete their trip.
Rather than the bustling of Grand Station or the utilization of the waiting
space in 30th Street, Union Station looks empty. There are eight wooden
benches, four on either end of the great hall, with the center remarkably open.
The light-colored marble floors and the incredibly high sky lights gives the
impression of lightness and magnitude. With so few people, the space looks even
more massive. I read that the station is anticipating a threefold increase in
the coming years. It seems that the station is well suited to accommodate the
increased passengers.
While many stations create a
nostalgic feeling of early twentieth century, Union Station Chicago has a
slightly more recent nostalgia, perhaps from the mid-twentieth century. For
example, the Metro Deli is an old-style bar
complete with vintage advertisements for color televisions and historic
photographs lining the walls. It is a traditional oval bar with a number of
televisions, plus a sandwich carving station. As I looked around, I imagined
men who had worked in the city having a beer while waiting for a train home to
the suburbs, watching the final innings of a Cubs game on WGN. In my mind,
Harry Caray was bellowing across the bar, hoping against hope for a late inning
rally from the Cubs.
| Penn Station (March 2014) |
| Lamp at Union Station Chicago |
Monday, March 17, 2014
Rizzoli Books
A newspaper article in January
noted that the famous Rizzoli Bookstore of New York might have to move again because
the building it occupies is set for demolition. Originally the bookstore opened
on Fifth Avenue in 1964. It moved around the corner to 57th Street when its
nineteenth century building was demolished in favor of a new office tower.
Almost three decades later the bookstore is faced with a similar problem.
| Interior of Rizzoli Bookstore (March 2014) |
After reading the article I went
to Rizzoli’s website and read through the blog. A number of famous people have
shopped at the store and it has hosted its share of parties. One of my favorite
stories was the day David Bowie made some purchases and presented his
credit card, which used his actual name: David Jones. The clerk looked at the
card and asked: “Hey, weren’t you in The Monkees?”
I decided to pay my respects to
the venerable place in March, realizing that I probably would not be in the
city again before it closed. Scaffolding already surrounded the outside of the
building and inside people were measuring bookshelves and stacking oversized
manuscripts onto trolleys. It was a signal that no stay of execution was
likely. The three stories of the building were stocked with interesting books,
foreign magazines, and individual alcoves were dedicated to Italian, French and
Spanish-language books. A number of interesting literary and travel posters
dotted the walls. Perhaps the most striking feature of the store are the
chandeliers that produce a soft light in a space that is darker than most
modern retail outlets.
Can a chain bookstore offer me
less expensive books? Yes. Can they offer a cup of (overpriced) coffee while
considering my purchases? Sure. Can I come across titles, authors and ideas I
have not considered in a chain store? Of course. Why, then, would I consider
the loss of a bookstore like Rizzoli important?
I suppose that there are a
number of answers to that question. Nostalgia is certainly important, but the “law
of the good neighbor” is top most in my mind. Because independent bookstores
have a wider range of interesting (not necessarily marketable) titles, it is
far more likely that an interesting discovery could happen. The law of the good
neighbor suggests that, typically, the information you seek is not in the book
you are looking for, but instead in the book right next to it. I would argue
that explorations in an independent bookstore are more organic than in a chain;
however, I would not deny that discoveries happen in all bookstores. (I worry
that our discoveries might be extremely limited if all of our book purchases were
online.)
More importantly, however, is
the unique space where the books live prior to finding a new home. There is
something more ennobling in a store that is not flooded by fluorescent light.
Intimate spaces like Rizzoli invite us to make real connections with books and
ideas. As we search for discoveries, we are not limited to literary treasures.
The odd corner or alcove is packed with precious gems that await our adventurous
exploration.
Tuesday, December 31, 2013
Faux Tourism
I constantly find myself
surprised at the popularity of destinations that are solely designed to sell
products. Places like M&M World in
Times Square have the feeling of a tourist destination, but in reality is
nothing more than a place to sell M&M products and memorabilia rather than
an Enlightenment sense of education and self-improvement. There is a sophistication
to these stores, including using smells to directly stimulate the senses of
those who enter. Patrons are charged almost as much as a film at the mall
cinema for a 30-minute film (complete with 3D and fragrances). This consumer
tourism creates an imperative to spend more money by fostering (debatable) nostalgia.
Many people readily buy in (pun fully intended).
I took my niece and nephew to Hershey’s Chocolate
World – a place that is big on hype, but rather short on intellectual engagement.
The gratis ride through a “chocolate factory” gives the air of information and
education. Actually, it is a poor substitute for an actual factory. As the ride
makes its way through video screens and plastic mock-ups of chocolate producing
machinery, a happy voice describes the process of making Hershey products. The narrative
is all but drowned out by singing cows that extoll the health benefits of the
milk in milk chocolate (“It’s Moo-tritious”). In the penultimate display, the
visitor is told to smile for a photograph, which can be purchased in the gift
shop. Finally, while exiting the ride, we are told that Hershey’s number one
goal is to keep a smile on your face. (All this time I thought it was to make
money!)
Call me cynical, but very little
attention is paid to Milton Hershey (1857-1945), his inventions or good works. No
doubt that there are dissenting views, but the Hershey School (f. 1909) and his
model town for employees are certainly admirable. There is a collage of him and
his work at the entrance to the ride, but it is overshadowed by lights and
noises that beckon the visitor to singing cows, as over-stimulated kids and
frustrated parents carelessly walk by.
Saturday, October 19, 2013
Whither the Book?
Angie turned to me and said,
“Anyone who thinks the book is dead should come here.” The here to which she was referring is Strand Books in New York. We were
visiting the famed bookstore on a Saturday afternoon in late September. The
store, which is very big, was so crowded it was often difficult to browse for
books because people were moving in and out between shelves. The line at the
checkout counter stretched 20-25 people, long enough that I could overhear
conversations about twenty-something dating rituals as we waited to complete
our purchases.
There are other famous bookstores
that engender such passion as well. Located at the corner of Pender and
Richards streets in Vancouver, MacLeod’s Books is one of those used book stores
where one can lose yourself for hours. It is a small space; however, there are
so many books stuffed into the store that it makes shopping a treasure hunt for
unknown goods.
| MacLeod's Books |
Featured in Macleans
two years before my visit, I spent almost two hours searching through stacks of
books. There are so many books that line the aisles that it leaves little room
to walk, and this did not include the books that are on the shelves and perched
on top of bookcases. While I was browsing the multitude of books, contorting
myself to read spines that were not in an orderly fashion, I thought to myself
that I was searching for books I did not know I wanted.
As I was browsing I could
overhear a number of conversations between customers and the staff. The staff
was knowledgeable and friendly, but not in an artificial manner that one finds
in chain stores. The man and woman who worked the store while I was there
figured out queries with minimum information. Among the customers was a woman
from Germany, who purchased a couple of books and said that she had read about
the store online.
Monday, September 23, 2013
NYPL
For some of us of a certain
predilection, the most important site in New York is the New York Public Library. Restaurants, theaters,
shops, monuments and stadiums all beckon, but do not represent the repertoire of
knowledge and culture collected within the walls of the exquisite building at
42nd and Fifth Avenue. Even if it is just a quick pass through the gift shop, a
trip to the library is always rewarding.
| The ceiling of the reading room surreptitiously taken with my iPad |
A few hours reading books in the
main reading room, where no tourists are allowed to take photographs, is
ennobling. Unlike many other libraries these days, the time-honored traditional
of quiet reflection is largely observed. Often the only noises, which are
magnified because of unusual silence is the frequent sound of the wooden chairs
legs dragged across the tile floor and the infrequent coughs of patrons. It is
a quiet oasis in the midst of a great bustling city.
The best quality of a research library
is that there are books and material that is available very few places, or
nowhere else in the world. In fact, the New York Public Library system is a
treasure trove of unique items. It is one of the things that makes the library
so special and why so
many fight to keep much of the collection on-site to continue to make it a
working research library.
While the collection makes the
library particularly useful, the building inspires us to greatness. At the
entrance to the main reading rooms is a quote from John Milton that reminds us
of the immortality of literature, words and books: “A good Booke is the
precious life-blood of a master spirit, imbalm’d and treasur’d up on purpose to
a life beyond life.” There are also corners of the library that reminds of us
days passed; my favorite is the bank of public telephones in the basement that
are, today, rarely used.
| Public telephones at the NYPL |
I was reading a fairly obscure
book by a British author (only 52 libraries around the world reported having a
copy) from the early post-World War II era. I had expected to find the book distasteful
and vehemently disagree with the ideas presented; however, I was struck by the
thoughtful exploration of the issue in question. While I disagree with the
overall premise, it did strike me as an interesting understanding of issues
from a bygone day. The author had written five other books, which made me
wonder if the library held copies. More broadly, what ideas, thoughts, stories,
narratives and collections must be contained in the volumes within the stacks
of the library? These are the types of books that are not on any type of
electronic device and likely never will be. When was the last time someone read
the book I read on that beautiful fall afternoon? Are there books that have not
been read in decades that would be discovered by a patron later today? Next week?
Or next year?
Friday, July 26, 2013
E. B. White’s Here is New York
White’s general theme, in what
is essentially a long essay, is that the city is both ever-changing and
never-changing. The streets and familiar landmarks give one a sense of
stability and permanence. Yet, at the same time, old buildings are torn down
and replaced with amazing frequency. What I find interesting in the book is how
prescient White’s observations are. He notes that people have an edge and
arguments occur far more frequently, prefiguring the stereotype of rude New
Yorkers. He is concerned about the over-commercialization of society, noting
that to him Grand Central Station was the most inspiring interior until ruined
by advertising. He laments the intrusion of television into public spaces,
arguing that men go to bars to gaze at television rather than having “long
thoughts.”
It is the final observation of
the book that is the most interesting and far-sighted. White is very much a man
of his era; writing in 1948 he is concerned about the specter of nuclear
warfare. But his prose eerily foreshadows the September 11 attacks, even though
the airplanes he fears are carrying atomic weapons instead of being themselves the
weapons of terror. He notes, as well, what makes the city stronger in the
aftermath: “The city at last perfectly illustrates both the universal dilemma,
and the general solution, this riddle in steel and stone is at one the perfect
target and the perfect demonstration of nonviolence…” (53). White returns to
the argument that the city’s diversity makes it stronger, specifically that the
number of different nationalities and groups meant that people had to be
tolerant of one another (43). It is this allure of the city, which White argues
bestows the gifts of loneliness and privacy, that allows people to be who they
want. Because people migrate to the city to find freedom and anonymity, and they
recognize fellow travelers, it creates the essence of urban tolerance. It is
also the source of disdain for many outside urban areas, for they fear those
who are different. Reading White sixty-five years after his observations, I was
struck by his foreshadowing of current trends. Cities are big, often illogical,
collections of neighborhoods and people that look like utter chaos; however, as
Katz
and Bradley have more recently argued, perhaps it is cities that will lead
the future.
Thursday, July 4, 2013
Vintage Advertisements (NYC)
When I see them, it is almost as
if they are urban archaeological artifacts. Painted on the sides of buildings,
often faded and difficult to read, these advertisements hearken back to previous
days when name brands did not necessarily have a global reach. Strange
| Gre-Solvent |
1. Gre-Solvent – West 50th Street (near 9th Avenue)
Gre-Solvent was a hand cleanser popular in the 1920s and
1930s that was used particularly by those engaged in manual labor. A company by
the same name still exists in Britain.
On the advertisement the catch phrase, “cleans them clean,” is still very
legible.
2. Hotel Rooms / Cigars – 8th Avenue (between 46th and
47th Streets)
Located on the side of the New York Inn, this advertisement
offers rooms that features steam heat, housekeeping, and hot and cold water. It
appears that the hotel advertisement was painted over an older advertisement for
cigars, which is more difficult to decipher.
| Hotel Rooms |
Wednesday, July 3, 2013
Small New York City Parks
One of the unique aspects of New
York City is the multitude of small parks that dot Manhattan. When people think
of parks in the city, their thoughts are naturally drawn to Central Park or,
perhaps, Bryant or Battery Park. Yet, the stories behind other, lesser known,
parks are just as interesting.
Adjacent to the theater district
in Hell’s Kitchen, Ramon Aponte
Park is a small, but vibrant park on West 47th Street (Between 8th and 9th
Avenues). The odd shape of the park is because the property line was originally
shaped by the farm land of Charles Kelley. In the 19th century (1860), the New
York City Police Department build a station on the land of the park and for
over one hundred years the site served as a precinct. Perhaps the most famous
person arrested and brought to the precinct was Mae West, who in 1926, was
incarcerated for appearing in the play “Sex,” which was deemed offensive by
city officials. In defending the play, West said, “I think that ‘Sex’ is one of
the cleanest plays on Broadway. There is no nudity and no obscene language in
the whole play” (New York Times, 5
March 1927).
In the 1960s the land would be
transferred to the Fire Department and ultimately the lot would stand empty and
abandoned in the 1970s. Thanks to the efforts of local residents, including the
leadership of Ramon Aponte, a playground was erected and opened on the spot in
1979. By 1981, the park received the official designation of a public
playground and later as a park.
Location:
Hell's Kitchen, New York, NY, USA
Tuesday, July 2, 2013
Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire – March 1911
It is an incredibly important
event, yet many Americans are only vaguely aware of it. (Recently I asked a
group of students how many were aware of what happened during the fire and more
than have had not heard of it.) Despite sitting in lower Manhattan, on the
campus of New York University, the Brown Building (formerly the Asch Building) at
23-29 Washington Place feels like it is a remote corner of the city. Perhaps it
is the perfect metaphor for how we remember the Triangle Fire.
One of the best accounts of the
fire, the trial that followed and its legacy is David von Drehle’s Triangle: The Fire that Changed America.
The Triangle Shirtwaist Company was a place where young, primarily female,
immigrants worked long hours for low wages. Employees were regularly cheated by
their employers. Minutes were shaved off their lunch hours and time clock were
“fixed” to elicit a little extra work out of the employees (von Drehle, pg. 7).
On 25 March 1911, a fire raced through the factory killing 146 employees, some
as young as 14 years. Locked doors and exits, unsafe working conditions and
improper fire equipment all led to a high number of deaths. In an era of
factory owners trying to secure massive profits, the economic well-being or
safety of workers was not a primary concern.
| The Brown Building (June 2013) |
As the fire raged through the
factory, trapping many of the workers, some chose to take their lives by
jumping rather than waiting for a death by flames. Such actions had a traumatic
effect upon those who witnessed the tragedy. As I lingered in the area around
the Brown building on a Saturday morning in late June, I remembered von
Drehle’s account. Even though the sidewalks have surely been paved over numerous
times in the 102 years since the fire I still considered them with some
trepidation.
If anything good can come of
such a tragedy, this may be an example. The fire served as an impetus to better
workplace safety standards in the United States. We are occasionally reminded
that those standards do not apply worldwide and that workers often face very
dangerous working conditions elsewhere. A couple months ago, the collapse
of a building in Bangladesh is reminder that workers continue to face
unsafe working conditions. Even in the United States, the question of fair
labor standards continues and some will occasionally bemoan safety
regulation, even after more than a hundred years after Triangle. Yet this is
more than a historical event, it is legacy and reality that bears remembrance
and consideration.
Update: Bangladeshi
Garment Factories (9 July 2013)
A consortium of European
retailers agreed to a plan to inspect and upgrade Bangladeshi clothing
factories in an effort to protect the safety of workers. The collapse of the
Rana Plaza building in Savar killed 1,127 people in April. Under the plan European
and Bangladeshi officials would inspect garment factories for safety hazards,
including fire escapes and structural problems that make the buildings prone to
collapse. The British and Dutch governments have offered to finance any
modifications that would need to occur to bring buildings into line with safety
standards. Yet, American companies have opted not to participate, instead
trying to establish a program of their own. There is speculation that American
companies were concerned with the costs and effects on profits. (See New
York Times, The
Guardian, Voice
of America)
A fire in November 2012 at a
Bangladeshi factory killed 112 workers, a number that is similar to the 146
workers who died in Triangle Fire. As David von Drehle pointed out, factory
workers are often faceless cogs to consumers, retailers and factory owners.
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