While riding Bus Route 20 through
Kilbeggan, Ireland, the sight of a waterwheel attached to a distillery along
the River Brosna is captivating. Of course, this feeds the imagination of
tourists and is a lucrative enterprise for the town. What is fascinating,
despite the lore and prominence given to Irish whiskey, is how much the
industry has struggled over time. This particular distillery is billed as the
oldest licensed in Ireland, dating to 1757 when Matthew MacManus licensed the Brusna
Distillery Company.
The Locke Family took over the distillery
in 1843 and ran it until 1954 when it ceased production, totally closing down
in 1957. Declining whiskey sales in Ireland and Britain during the depression
in the 1920s and 1930s, coupled with the closing of the American market during Prohibition,
all but finished Locke Whiskey. Transportation costs for the distillery were
high, particularly so because the railroad was never built to Kilbeggan. In
1947, an attempted sale to two men from Switzerland with dubious backgrounds
fell apart because of political pressure. The sale of the distillery was
derailed when questions were raised in the Dáil (parliament) about the proposed
deal. The controversy arose because officials uncovered an attempt to sell
whiskey on the English black market and the perpetrator was one of the Swiss
men soliciting the purchase of the distillery. Some politicians worried that
flooding the black market with the whiskey made in Kilbeggan would do damage to
the reputation of Irish whiskey in general. Additionally, questions were voiced
about whether the government showed favoritism to a foreign interest over an
Irish concern. The deal fell through and the heirs to Locke Whiskey continued
to run the business for another decade.
A group of local people in Kilbeggan
helped to preserved building after it sat empty for a quarter of a century and
established a museum of the Locke family distillery. In 1988, the Cooley
Distillery bought Kilbeggan and in 2007 began producing whiskey at the site
again. Most of the original 19th century machinery remains intact,
complete with the waterwheel. Today Kilbeggan Distillery serves as a museum, a
tourist destination, as well as a working distillery.
In case you were wondering,
Kilbeggan means “Church of Beccan,” a sixth century saint who was a recluse in
the area. Now he has a whiskey named after him.
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