The River Trail (Winnipeg)

 

The Red River on a bleak October morning in Winnipeg

The River Trail in Winnipeg runs approximately four miles along the Red River with associated trails branching off along the Assiniboine River. The confluence of the two rivers, a location where indigenous people gathered and traded for over 6000 years, is considered one of the most important places in the interior of North America. As part of the Trans Canada Trail, the signage specifically tries to tie the various European and Indigenous cultures of Manitoba and the city together.

Selkirk's Settlers

On the northern part of the trail, specifically in Stephen Juba Park, signs and monuments honor Selkirk’s settlers, a group of Scottish migrants who began arriving in 1812. Fleeing dire conditions in Scotland, the colonists were sponsored by the Earl of Selkirk to establish the Red River Colony, close to Winnipeg. Difficult conditions and tribulations followed.

"Education is the New Bison"

Closer to the city center, adjacent to the Museum of Human Rights at the Forks, trail signage concentrates on the indigenous history of the area. While historical explanations illustrate the importance of the area as a meeting place, contemporary indigenous culture is represented as well. A statue by Val T. Vint, called “Education is the New Bison,” places emphasis on learning as the new key to economic and cultural wealth. The buffalo in the statute is constructed of books, marking a new way forward for indigenous communities. The trail also recognizes the continuing legacy of hardship and devastation as well. The Manitoba memorial for Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women occupies a prominent place on the trail, and has flowers and candles left for “those who are not here.” Around the city, several displays of REDress, red dresses displayed in various ways, are prominent. The art installations, a play on words, are a call to redress the injustices faced indigenous communities. Similarly, Canada declared 30 September as the National Day of Remembrance for Victims of Residential Schools. Flags remained at half-mast in many places during the month of October.

The Memorial for Murdered and Missing Indigenous Women

Herline Covered Bridge

 

Located near Manns Choice, in Bedford County, this covered bridge was constructed in 1902 to cross the Juniata River. Located near US Route 30, the 136-foot-long bridge is one of several that dot Pennsylvania.

VJ’s Drive Inn – Winnipeg

 

Originally opened in 1958 as Juniors, VJ’s is located across Main Street from the train station in central Winnipeg, this local dive has a loyal following. VJ’s is a very small place where there is barely enough room for four or five people to order. There is no seating inside, and a few picnic tables adjacent to the parking lot and is a cash-only establishment. The entire menu consists of hamburgers, hot dogs, and French fries, typically not my normal fare. However, when in Winnipeg I suspect one must sample the local cuisine. I order a hot dog, which automatically comes with chili, mustard, onions, and pickles. It was raining and the picnic tables that are outside were wet and messy. I chose to eat my hot dog standing in the parking lot. It was good, and it is clear why and how VJ’s has been in business for over 60 years.

A fellow patron, wearing a Montreal Canadiens, waiting for his order. 

The menu board

Nønsuch Brewing Company, Winnipeg

 

A funky, but elegant, brewpub wedged between the River Walk and Chinatown section of the city. After checking my vaccination record and identification, the female server commented that it must be my first time visiting given that I was from Pennsylvania. COVID protocols meant that ordering and serving was done through a phone app, but the service, nonetheless, was kind and friendly. I ordered deviled eggs and Baltic Porter. At first one might think that the combination was strange, and I would tend to agree. However, a commercial during the hockey game on television the night before, from Canadian egg producers, argued that having a egg as a snack was not weird. And it was weird to think otherwise. No doubt that I was primed by the commercial, but I also remember that in the early twentieth century it was common for bars in the United States to serve hard boiled eggs as well.

Despite the rather plain exterior, the interior of Nønsuch is lavishly decorated in soothing colors. Comfortable tables and couches, with soft lighting set a mood. A small after work clientele made up most of the patrons. Most of the tables would turnover before a Friday night rush. Electronic music played in the background, capping off a sophisticated, cool ambiance.

The Baltic Porter was described as, “A deceptively smooth gateway to the dark side.” At 6.8% abv it certainly was. After asking how I liked it, I told my server that the description was accurate. Without know the alcohol content, it would have been very easy to have another one or two. With a mile and a quarter walk back to the hotel, and at 5:30 in the afternoon, a second beer would likely have meant an early night for me.

Dining in Manitoba

 

The Forks Market, a converted train depot, in Winnipeg

In Manitoba, the weather has turn too cold for outdoor dining and it is required for dining patrons to show proof of a full regiment of vaccines and a photo ID to dine in an indoor restaurant or facility. Usually, a hostess will check or, in the case of The Forks Market, a venue with multiple eateries and a common dining area, an enforcement officer will come around and verify one’s status. I have a photo of my vaccination card at the ready on my phone and produce my driver’s license when asked. One woman even commented, “It’s nice to see a Pennsylvania license.”

The sign on tables announcing the verification procedures

Smith Restaurant (Winnipeg, Manitoba)

 

My original plan for a late-night sushi run, after watching hockey, was thwarted when the restaurants in The Forks Market closed earlier than I had anticipated. Instead, I retreated to Smith Restaurant, located in the same building as my hotel, where I order their Pork Belly Char-Siu. Described as “marinated Manitoba pork belly,” served with kimchi fried rice, a spicy aioli, toasted sesame seeds, and cilantro. The rice also contained egg and peas. It was very delicious and a perfect light, late-night meal.  With it, I had a brown ale from Little Brown Jug Brewing Company, also located in Winnipeg.

Cortland NY Post Office

 

“Valley of the Seven Hills” (1943), a painted wooden relief, by Ryah Ludins.

88 Main St., Cortland, NY