Kings Gap: White Oaks Trail

White Oak Trail

 

The White Oaks Trail is a short, family friendly, and ADA accessible trail that makes a short loop in the Kings Gap Recreational area. The moss thinly covers the trail so that it is like walking on an emerald carpet. The trail is currently being used as a StoryWalk® trail, in which as hikers walk the trail, they can also read a children’s book. The current story is Hiking Day by Anne Rockwell, illustrated by Lizzy Rockwell,[1] about a family’s adventures in the woods and what they see.

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[1] Anne Rockwell, Hiking Day, illustrated by Lizzy Rockwell (New York: Aladdin, 2020).

Kings Gap: Ridge Overlook Trail

 

The Cumberland Valley from Ridge Overlook

With the invasion of Ukraine beginning the day before, it is hard to put world events out of one’s mind to enjoy being in nature. My Friday afternoon long hikes are a way to buffer myself from the demands of my job, the stress of work, to refresh and reset going into the weekend. But the inability to disengage from news about the largest military invasion since the Second World War because many people will ask me to explain it, keeps my car’s radio tuned to the BBC the entire drive to Kings Gap. On the way, I stop by Dutch Country Store to buy bread, oatmeal, and pretzels. And then, pick up a sandwich at Kings Gap General Store.

It was a particularly windy day. So much so, that as I was walking to my car from the office, I noticed a pair of Canada Geese flying overhead. A sudden gust of wind blew one into another. Both recovered, within a second but I have never seen anything like that before. Overnight, a wintery mix brought a coating of ice pellets, most of which were gone by the time I started out for the walk.

The Ridge Overlook trail is less than a mile in length, so to get more miles in during my walk. I parked at the Black Gum parking area and walked up the road to Rock Scree trail, and from there to access Ridge Overlook. On the way, I stopped by and checked on my old friend and saw it was surviving the high winds well. In retrospect, I probably did the trail backwards. Starting from Rock Scree, I was starting from the near the top and walking down. The highest elevation is at the overlook which is about a third of a mile from the road.

It is not often that I hike the entire trail, rather I access it from Rock Scree. On Sunday mornings, when Angie is participating in her yoga class, the overlook is often my first stop. It is about half a mile from the lodge, and a nice place to have a coffee before starting out in earnest on whatever exploration or hike I might be doing. The overlook, a rocky ledge that overlooks the Cumberland Valley, has a good vista. In the fall, it is along the path that birds of prey will take during their migration.

Ridge Overlook follows the ridgeline down the creek

The good thing about starting the trail from near the mansion is that the highest elevation of the trail is near the beginning. While that diminishes the cardio workout that one might want. But, on the other hand, the trail is a rocky and treacherous descent. When it is wet, you are focusing on your feet rather than the trees, birds, and views.

The trail terminates at Kings Gap Hollow Trail, near the pump house. 

Because it follows a ridgeline, the trail can often be difficult to navigate

Penguins vs. Carolina 20 February 2022

 

Pregame ceremony honoring Sidney Crosby's 500th NHL goal before the game

Andrew and I cautiously resumed our attendance at hockey games. It was our first game together since 8 March 2020, the last game the Penguins played prior to the initial Covid pause. That game, also against the Carolina Hurricanes, was the last time the two teams had played, a gap of nearly two years. The teams entered play each with 70 points, tied for the lead in the division, but the Hurricanes had played fewer games.

Prior to the game, a ceremony to acknowledge Crosby’s 500th NHL goal occurred. The feat happened at the previous home game on 15 February against Philadelphia. Assistant captains Kris Letang and Evgeni Malkin presented him with a golden hockey stick and a framed memento.

A Preliminary Walk on the Montour Trail

 

Montour Run

Whenever in Pittsburgh, there are enough distractions that completing a 60-mile trail would seemingly take a long time. Yet, when the opportunity to walk a few miles on time Montour Trail presents itself, I find it satisfying and wondering if there would be some way extend my walks. Even walking on a late Saturday afternoon, when it was 23 degrees with a wind chill of 14, the trail is compelling and interesting. I covered a little more than a mile in the fading light of a sunny day, a little beyond the third- and fourth-mile markers, with only a few other hardy people and a dog brave the wind and cold.

The 46-mile semicircle that covers the southern suburbs of Pittsburgh, from the Ohio River to the Monongahela River was once the right of way for the Montour Railroad. At various points the Montour links with connecting and other regional trails making it a hub for walking and exploring.

The Clowder Turns Four

 

Coco, Lucie, and Pip in front of the fire (January 2022)

It is hard to imagine our lives without Lucie, Pip, and Coco. Since they came home with us, a little under four years ago, each of them has found a niche in our house. They all have their “jobs” and idiosyncrasies. Pip likes to join me in the office in the mornings for a little work before breakfast, while Lucie supervises Angie’s yoga sessions. Coco is quick to remind us to keep their food dish full, even if there is quite a bit left. All enjoying helping Angie work on jigsaw puzzles, although it is amazing that each of her puzzle seem to come up a few pieces short upon completion.

Supervising the puzzle

The cats take turns watching television with us, but Coco especially loves watching hockey. That is literally true. While Pip will fall asleep on the back of the couch, Coco watches the television, especially hockey. She seems to have a special affinity for Jay Caulfield, the analyst during Penguins intermissions. When she hears his voice, she sits and becomes very focused. When Caulfield uses a telestrator to diagram plays on the screen, Coco begins to talk back, apparently offering counter analysis. Finally, as he is drawing lines and arrows, she jumps up and tries to offer her own suggestions.

Coco watching hockey with dad

As I am fond of telling them, the three are among the luckiest and most spoiled kittens I know. They spent a lot of time this summer on the back porch in their Octagon, watching birds and squirrels while napping. And in the winter, they spend warm cuddly nights, in their baskets, in front of the fireplace. Toys are scattered throughout the house, and moving a couch, stove, or refrigerator reveals a ton of other that have been forgotten. Yes, we continue to call them kittens despite arriving at the age of four year.

Lucie enjoying some (supervised) outdoor time on the porch

The last year has not been without worries. In late February, we began noticing Pip was squinting often. After several visit to our local vet, and then a couple of visits to an animal ophthalmologist in suburban DC, Pip was diagnosed with a herpes virus that he likely inherited from his mother. Although his eyes look bad from time to time, he does not seem to be in pain. Coco scared us in recent weeks with what was apparently a passed kidney stone. Although she was having trouble, Coco never seemed to feel bad and continued to be the sweet girl she is.

Coco closely guarding her mouse

This year was one in which the cats had three vacations. Traveling with their human parents can be stressful, but once they arrive each seem to enjoy the change of scenery. During the summer, we returned to Skaneateles, New York for a week away. Although it is a long four-plus hour ride, they tolerated their crate and settled right into our apartment for a week. They did so well, we are planning for a two-week trip this coming summer. About ten days after I received my second vaccination, and two weeks after Angie’s, the clowder made their first trip to Delaware, specifically Rehoboth Beach. Although from their perspective, Rehoboth is nothing more than a studio apartment hotel room without a particularly good view. Nevertheless, they enjoyed it so much, Lucie, Pip, and Coco made a return visit to Rehoboth in December for a pre-Christmas getaway.

Pip enjoying Delaware, in a hotel room (April 2021)

Coco finding new places to explore in Skaneateles (June 2021) 

In May, after receiving our vaccines, Angie and I got to see Mackie in Florida, the uncle to the clowder who have yet to meet him. Shadow continues comes to the backdoor to have a little treat most mornings. Recently, there has been quite a bit of snow and ice on the ground, so we did not see him for a while. Last week, he appeared wanting some food and there was much rejoicing among our cats, happy to see their old buddy. We occasionally hear from, and receive a picture from Myrtle, our friend who stayed with us for a few weeks while se was trying to find a home a few years ago. Our network of cat friends remains, thankfully, well.

Coco trying figure out dad's shelfing system (April 2021)

Lucie napping in the office (April 2021)

Lucie and Coco napping (May 2021)

Relaxing while in Skaneateles (June 2021)

Lucie and Pip, back in Rehoboth (December 2021)

Coco tuning up our Christmas tree on New Years Day

Coco demanding my attention while, at the same time, stepping on the delete key as I am writing (January 2022)

This photo of Pip was taken in January 2022 although it could be from any month from this past year. Pip comes to the office, while I am writing each morning and curls up to sleep in the office chair next to mine. I have dozens of photographs that look the same because this is him nearly every day. 

Our buddy, the neighborhood cat Shadow, who is getting along in years but visits daily when the weather is good. In the upper right hand corner you can distinctly see Coco's face. She seems most enamored with Shadow. and consequently we refer to him as her boyfriend. 

The good boy Uncle Mackie, who came to see us in May at Beau's house in Montbrook. 

Myrtle, who when she stayed with us was known as Jenny (October 2021)

Coco is a big cat, and when she stretches our can take up a lot of room in the bed. Although at times we think she wants to be an only cat, she probably misses us the most when we are gone. 

Kings Gap: Rock Scree Trail

 

Looking out over the Cumberland Valley from Rock Scree Trail

Beginning at the bottom of the hill, at the Pine Plantation parking area, and ending at the mansion at the top, I find rock scree to be of the most challenging of the trails in the park. Whereas Kings Gap Road takes a circuitous 4-miles route to the mansion, this trail is more direct, and the elevation climb more substantial. It is just a little under two miles but challenging. And once at the top, there is always the return trip to be made, at least it is downhill from there. Still, it is one of my favorite trails because of the change in scenery and the challenge.

Pine trees are among my favorites. The tall straight loblolly pines in the Pine Plantation recreation area are inspiring. On a windy day, such as this, the whooshing sound of air going through the pine needles is amazing. Yet, many trees not doing well in this area. The number of dead and downed trees is disturbing. I had to step over four downed trees at the beginning of the walk. From the road it is apparent that many trees had been feasted on by woodpeckers, doubtlessly ravished some infestation.

Despite being 50 degrees there is still some ice on small ponds and, consequently, some very muddy stretches. But it is the first time I have been on the trails at Kings Gap this year. Some snow is still on the ground and trail on north side of the hills. My hike, on the second Saturday of February, coincides with the birthday of Abraham Lincoln, who gave his most famous speech just thirty miles away in Gettysburg.  Earlier in the week, it was the birthday of Charles Dickens, who would often walk twelve miles a day. The day before, it was the birthday of Patrick Leigh Fermor, one of the best travel writers and who at eighteen began his walk across Europe in December 1933.

The Rock Scree

The rocky path is tricky on good days, but a layer of dead leaves hides rocks on which twisted ankles might occur. A scree, not a particularly common word I think, is a collection of rocks that have fallen from a higher elevation. A source notes that is comes from the old Norse word skritha, meaning landslide.  Just as I work my way through the scree, I meet an older gentleman carrying an empty plastic root beer bottle walking with an adolescent who never made eye contact with me. I took the opportunity to move to the side of the path to let them pass, ostensibly to be polite but actually needing a rest. The kindly man sheepishly said, “Picking up trash… I hate when people do that…” I agreed with his sentiment, but breathing heavily I just got out, “I know.” He continued, shaking his head, “So disrespectful. Have a nice day!” I bade him a good day as well, recovered a bit, and continued. The worse of the climb was over. 

Near the top of the trail, close to the intersection of Forest Heritage Trail, one of my old friends stands in silent vigil. It is a tall, mature Black Gum tree, with most of its trunk rotted away. I know that it can survive like this for years, but it has a terminal condition. You can see through it, and the gap in its wood on the inside goes up a further three feet from what is seen from the trail. It is susceptible to wind, and it is not getting the optimal amount of nutrients from its roots. I like to walk by and check on it when I am hiking in the area. Typically, I give it a pat as I go by as an acknowledgment.

An old friend

From there, the trail is a nice walk through the woods. Crossing the road means another tenth of a mile or so, up a rather steep incline, to the mansion area and the trailhead of many trails. 

 

Winter at Kings Gap

Kings Gap Road

I returned for a third successive weekend to Kings Gap. This time on a Saturday, rather than Friday afternoons. The snow and ice from a storm a few weeks ago have made trails and sidewalks impassable. Since then, it has been cold with very little melting. Kings Gap, a favorite, if relatively inconvenient, place to walk beckons. One of my goals this year is to complete the Kings Gap challenge, successfully hiking every trail through the park. I came close last year but had a couple of trails left, not getting myself organized in time. Even at Kings Gap, however, the trails are icy and dangerous. The prospect of falling on the ice, breaking a bone, or straining my back, without good cellular service is just not something I want to chance.

Instead, walking the four-mile-long Kings Gap Road, from the park entrance to the lodge at the top of the mountain is a good substitute. The occasional automobile does not spoil the tranquility of walking in the woods. It also provides additional safety; if I were to fall chances are much better than someone would be along sometime soon to give me a hand. The first two times I parked at Black Gum Parking Area and walked to the top. On my third visit, I parked near the entrance. Normally I would start at Pine Plantation, but the parking lot was covered in ice. The previous two nights, nearly two inches of rain fell, and then the temperature dropped quickly. I pulled into the parking area, which was a sheet of ice, to use the restroom before starting and nearly fell a couple of times. It made more sense to park elsewhere, but the ice was so slick it was not easy to get the car up the small incline to get out. I parked, instead, at the small parking lot at the nearby Nature Conservancy Preserve and walked toward the top of the mountain one the cleared road. 

Kings Gap is quiet during the winter, except for the wind blowing through the dead leaves still clinging to the trees and the occasional trail runners yelling their conversations back and forth to one another as them make their way up or down the trails and roads. A few birds can be heard but often not seen. The snow creates beautiful vistas and muffles distance sounds.

Water tower and loblolly pine at the top of the mountain 

As I was walking back down, lost in my thoughts, and enjoying nature, my left foot hit a piece of “black ice,” melted snow that has recently refroze but looks like wet asphalt. I could not pick up my foot, it kept sliding in slow motion. Soon I was close to do the splits when my right knee touched the ground and stopped the slide. It was a reminder that I should pay attention and not be so cavalier during the winter. I suffered no injury, just chastened.

Nearing the car, I heard the distinct sound of pileated woodpeckers, one of my favorite birds. Then, I followed the sound and saw two flying between trees. It was the first good look at a bird on the walk. I immediately spook one, but the other went to a nearby tree and began scrounging for food in the bark. I got closer, took a couple of photos, and was prepared to wait for it to be in a better position. I crept closer, then a car came barreling down the road, with two Weimaraners hanging their head out the back windows voicing their pleasure. The woodpecker flew away in haste, far enough I lost track. I would have to wait another day for that good picture of a pileated woodpecker. 

A pileated woodpecker, before getting scared

On the way: 

An abandoned house on Walnut Bottom Road (PA 174) between the villages of Walnut Bottom and Centerville, near the intersection of Quarry Hill Road. 

Cumberland Valley Rail Trail: Oakville Road to Bulls Head Road

 

CVRT between Nealy and Bull Heads Roads 4 February 2022

On the main part of the CVRT, it is difficult to find any part that is more remote. But between Nealy Road and Bulls Head Road there is very little traffic, fields and pastures are on either side. This makes this stretch a good place to watch birds. About halfway between the two roads, not too far from mile marker 8, a line of five trees, perpendicular from the trail, form a boundary between two fields. Three trees are close to the trail, while the other two, further away, are space further apart. On the furthest tree there is a hawk’s nest that has been there for at least the last three years. It is not uncommon to see a hawk sitting in that last tree monitoring the fields for rodents. Today, I saw two hawks in different trees, doubtlessly the breeding pair. As I approached, one of the hawks left the middle tree and retreated to the one with the nest. I think they are red-tailed hawks, but make a mental note to return soon, before trees start budding, with binoculars and the camera to identify. 

Near Nealy Road I watched a pair of downy woodpeckers move around a small tree searching for insects together. As they kept equidistant from each other, circling looking for a quick meal, their movements were like a dance. Facing upright, they work their way down the tree, in a movement that is seemingly backwards.

A few days later I returned to photograph the nest, but neither hawks were around. 

CVRT 2022-02-03

The CVRT between Queen Street and Fogelsonger Road.

The promise of an early February ice storm raised the possibility that my 400-plus day consecutive walking streak might come to an end. As a prelude, the front end of the storm brought a persistent rain helped melt the ice that covered the trail for the past two weeks. Sometimes, when the weather is bad like this, noticing the birds, the trees, and other sights is less important. The act of walking is more about concentrating on maintaining a pace, to keep going, and finishing positively. Ignoring that your pants are getting wetter, colder, and heavier, is not helpful. Still, I did catch a few male cardinals, their bright red plumage muted by the fog, flying through the trees. Rather than singing birds, my ears were focused on the sound of the rain on my umbrella.

I got back to my car after about half an hour, and the heated seats I have left on from the morning. My wet pants, damp boots, and socks are a mild discomfort. I would soon be home to change into dry clothes. But I thought of those who did not have that luxury. The temperature would soon drop, and being outside damp, if not wet, would not only be uncomfortable, but as the night set in and the rain turned to ice, it would be dangerous. If I had to spend the night outside in weather like this, where would I go? What would I do?