Pulled Pork Barbeque in the South

 

Pulled pork, smoke houses, and barbeque houses are ubiquitous across the American South. Although perhaps not the best for one’s diet, eating at these establishments is a culinary treat and an adventure in history and tradition. Hungry as we made our way toward the Georgia Coast, we spotted The Pig Bar-B-Que in Callahan, Florida. Still wary about inside dining because of the pandemic, and wanting to save time, we decided to place a takeout order at the obviously popular local restaurant. We pull into line with only three cars ahead of us. It seemed easy, and fast. But the wait was interminable; with three cars ahead of us it took us thirty minutes to get to the microphone where we ordered. Because I worked in restaurants for years, I am patient about such things. A Sunday after-church-rush can be brutal, and the crush of people can easily delay everything in a restaurant. My father always commented that those who have just been to church seemingly forgot today’s sermon in their impatient demands for immediate food and service. No one is very kind to a server when their food is delayed. Yet waiting in the car while it is hot is no fun. While I was not hungry when our car joined the line of customers, the expectation of food made me desirous of an afternoon meal. To pass the time I watched anole lizards dart back and forth, on the hot concrete from beneath the bushes, occasionally puffing out their reddish pink throats to attract a mate. We finally reached the pickup window and received out generous sandwiches, overflowing with pulled pork, and iced tea. The young woman, probably in high school, did not say a word about the long wait, but told me to “Have a blessed day!” Pulling around to the front of the restaurant we understood the delay. A firetruck and ambulance sat idling in front of the restaurant. Apparently, a medical emergency had occurred as we waited to order. 

Vandy's Bar-B-Q (Statesboro, GA)

Located at the corner of West Vine and South Walnut, in downtown Statesboro, Georgia, Vandy’s Bar-B-Q has been a local institution since its inception in 1929. The eatery even elicits a historical plaque outside the front door of its restaurant, where it relocated to in 1943. Vandy’s is situated across the street in what was once called “Blue Front,” the African American commercial district of Statesboro. In the 1930s and 1940s, the area was a vibrant area with barber shops, dry cleaners, restaurants, and other local businesses; however, by the end of the 1960s all the businesses were gone. Today, this square block is little more than a parking lot. Despite its proximity, Vandy’s was not a part of this commercial district offering a separate window where blacks could order food prior to the civil rights movement. During the racial strife of the 1960s, the restaurant was targeted and severely damaged after being firebombed.

Serving breakfast and lunch, Vandy’s is, of course, famous for their barbeque pulled meat sandwiches, which have a distinctive woodsmoke flavor. Served on Sunbeam white bread, the sandwiches are not pretentious. The blue-and-white checked floor, the cinderblock walls, and the straightforward menu that meets the expectations of locals, all harken to earlier days. It is difficult to walk into the restaurant and not feel like you are stepping back in time. 

We only spent two nights in Statesboro and only learned about Vandy’s after its weekday closing time of 4pm. The next morning, on our way out of town, we stopped by to take two sandwiches, and an order of coleslaw to go. We happened to arrive at shift change, so there was a bit of confusion, exacerbated by some cultural misunderstanding. I was unfamiliar with the ordering process; the workers were perplexed by my accent. I forgot to order unsweetened iced tea, receiving the sweet version instead, and the young woman who endeavored to help me had a difficult time understanding why I wanted another cup for tea. A nice young man stepped in to translate and remedy the situation. Despite the momentary confusion, we soon put our sandwiches in a cooler to keep them warm and made our way north on US25. A couple of hours later, outside a McDonald’s in South Carolina, we had our delicious pulled pork sandwiches. I felt smug eating a much better lunch than those lined up in their cars, spending their lunchbreaks waiting for a burger that is replicated billions of times over, instead of the prepared in the back of a famed restaurant. My barbeque sandwich was prepared the same way it had been for decades, but with a completely unique and local taste. 

Loaves of Sunbeam Bread, in case you need more