Exploring Auckland

The first time I seriously considered Auckland was in college. I remember reading a brief story, in our local newspaper, about a guy who got on plane heading for Oakland, but ended up in Auckland. The man, Michael Lewis,  said that he was having trouble understanding the accent and thought he was going Oakland, but then grew concerned when the flight was taking him to Tahiti first. At the time, I was dubious about his story thinking that it was a clever scam to get a free trip to an exotic and costly destination; however, upon tracking down a few articles the story does seem to make more sense. 

My story is different: I intended to fly to Auckland, or more specifically to New Zealand. I once read that New Zealand looks like England did fifty years ago. I was not in England fifty years ago; however, judging from my, thus far, limited sojourns in Auckland, I am not sure that the observation is true. Auckland, which is not only the largest city in New Zealand but in the entire South Pacific, is different from many major cities. The city is a place of interesting architecture, where remnants of the the colonial past are still visible. 

A Pukeko in Western Springs, Lakeside Park 

The idea that a country of islands, half a world away, could come, occupy and colonize another chain of islands in the South Pacific is fascinating. Even today, with modern technology and transportation, New Zealand is isolated and exotic. As John Chambers points out, the interchange of cultures between the staid English and the sexually adventurous Polynesians makes the story of colonization improbably intriguing, with the potential for misunderstanding mores. Yet, the remoteness of the sizable islands of New Zealand gives it an other worldly draw. It took time for nature to colonize these remote islands. With no natural predators, some birds abandoned the use of flight. Trees and vegetation did not have the same development patterns as other areas.

The remoteness and mixing of identities, together with more recent arrivals, produces different kind of country. It does cause a tension between what New Zealand is and what it wants to be. Upon entry into the country, the traveller has a number of procedures he/she encounters. The arriving aircraft is sprayed with an aerosol in an attempt to prevent foreign insects from entering the ecosystem. A customs form, which all people arriving must fill out, uses draconian language in an attempt to enforce compliance with laws designed to protect native plants and animals. [Despite the ominous language, I found all the officials courtesy and helpful.] These measures are, no doubt, necessary to protect what remains of the fragile ecosystem. 

Whitcoulls in Central Auckland

Yet, things seem strangely familiar. The most common small bird I have seen while walking around Auckland is the sparrow. There are plenty of familiar stores and fast food restaurants.  Even Christmas is celebrated with a similar enthusiasm and tradition as in the Northern Hemisphere. During the holiday season, which is summer in the Southern Hemisphere, many of the decorations, carols and traditions appear to be centered around the notion that it is supposed to be cold. I was sitting in a café, having a coffee, while blaring over the speakers were two, back-to-back, versions of “White Christmas.” Santa and his reindeers adorn what was once Farmer’s Trading Company, a major department store in New Zealand now a huge bookshop, and snowmen dot the city. Yet, there are subtle differences. A restaurant I had dinner in one evening announced the following day (20 December) that is would be closing until mid-January for the holidays, a tradition that dates back to when shops in New Zealand closed at 6PM everyday. There are rather large flightless birds wondering around the numerous city parks.  And, after all, there are quite a few people wearing shorts and sandals wandering the city. 

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