Obscure New York

While New York is known for its famous attractions, what I find interesting is the lesser known or hidden places in the city. There are small monuments, markers, buildings and places that are not observed by most who pass by. Here is a collection of some of my favorites from the past few visits:

Placed prominently in the Old King Cole Bar and Saloon, the hotel bar of the St. Regis Hotel, is a mural by Maxfield Parrish. The dark wood interior and cozy atmosphere help to highlight the mural that sits behind the bar. Commissioned by John Jacob Astor IV in 1906 and installed in 1932 the painting allegedly pokes fun at Astor who was one of the most famous victims of the Titanic.  

As I have written before, public telephone booths are increasing an endangered species. I can imagine a time when in heavy demand; however, today these two on the first floor of the New York Public Library, still provide a public service. In my imagination, a diligent researcher finds his/her way to the telephone to ask a client or boss for further information. Alas, most researchers would pick up their smart phone and text the question.

This faded mural is on the ceiling of Graybar Passage at Grand Central Terminal.  It is difficult to make out what the mural depicts, other than a railroad bridge toward the bottom, and it has proved difficult to find much information about the painting (more to come).

Once ubiquitous around the United States, fallout shelters and signs have become increasingly difficult to find. Growing up I knew the closest fallout shelter was at my elementary school. I later learned that it would likely have done me no good as most of the shelters were woefully inadequate, had insufficient food, and the water were often contained in leaky, rusty cans. This fallout shelter entrance and sign on 52nd Street, near Third Avenue, appears to have escaped remodeling and theft for now.

Rangitoto

The island of Rangitoto from Devonport

The Bach Museum

Rangitoto is an island in Auckland bay, just a few minutes from the city, where native plants and bird species are protected. The island was just formed 600 years ago by a massive volcanic explosion. Footprints of Māori and their dogs exploring the island shortly after the eruption can still be found in hardened lava flows. In an effort to return the island to its original natural habitat, and to help struggling endemic species, there are several traps around the island to facilitate the eradication of pests. Each trap had an egg inside so that mice and rats will be tempted by these rather than the eggs of native New Zealand birds. In addition to a few World War II defensive installations, there remains a few holiday bungalows, locally known as baches; however, since 1937 no further building has been allowed. A Museum Bach near the Wharf provides great insight into holiday life of the early 20th century, complete with examples of china, tins, clothing and radios from the period. 

The Kowhai Grove Walk

Despite an interesting human presence on the island, the real draw to Rangitoto is its natural and rugged beauty. I spent approximately four and a half hours on the island, exploring, hiking and taking photographs. I traversed the Kowhai Grove and the Kidney Fern areas before ascending the Summit and volcano crater. The number of different types of trees and ferns were too numerous to identify; however, pohutukawa trees, alternatively known as New Zealand Christmas trees, were ubiquitous on the island. 

The climb to the top of the extinct volcano was arduous for many, even though the tourist map suggested it was a moderate climb. True, no special equipment was required. Yet, the trail went from sea-level to 259 meters (850 feet) in about 2.5 kilometers. Near the summit was the crater of the island and all along the way was evidence of the lava flow from the distinctive black rocks. Once at the top, I smiled when I overheard a father, referring to his young son, state: “Yes, he was the first one to the top…aside from all the other people who were here.”  Walking down the hill I had a better view of the struggle many faced on their ascent to the top. One woman was wearing Beats headphones as she walked up the hill. Perhaps it was motivation; however, I do not think she was communing with nature. 

New Zealand Fantail

There were several interesting birds to observe and photograph. A photograph of the tui remains elusive. However, while walking through an area with a number of ferns I became fascinated with a small bird, which was very vocal, darting around from limb to limb. The bird seemed to be displaying its feathers, and although active and seemingly not shy, I had difficulties focusing on the bird through the lens. After several minutes I heard a group of people walking toward me that included two young boys. I knew that the birds would most likely flee with the approach of loud humans. I took a picture that, although blurry, I thought I could use it to identify the bird and awaited the arrival of the party. Before long a young boy, age about seven, stood less than six feet from me an yelled back to his parents and grandmother, “Hey there’s a person here.”  The mother smiled at me knowingly as she passed and I pressed on. I began the climb up the summit in earnest and there on a tree branch, just a few feet away, were three birds of the same species. The bird were New Zealand fantails, a fairly common bird in rural New Zealand but interesting, vocal and very approachable by humans. I spent all that time, standing among the ferns, well off the trail, with no luck. Ten minutes later,  with a number of people passing, the fantails almost posed for me. 

European Thrush

Because I had read many New Zealand birds were flightless, I was excited about coming into close contact with a brown bird, about the size of a North American robin, who stuck to the ground and only hopped away when it was approached. Under a big sprawling tree I spent several minutes remaining relatively still so that I could snap as many photos as possible. When I asked the volunteers at the historical batch about the birds I had seen and photographed, one woman said, “Ah yes, that’s a thrush, a European transplant.” As I explained my theory about flightless birds in New Zealand, she said that in her garden in England you could not get close to a thrush. In New Zealand, they seem to have no fear at all. Perhaps like many from Britain, they found New Zealand a better place to live. The prohibition of animals (not only rats and mice, but dogs and cats as well) helped all the birds, not just those endemic to the South Pacific. 

Rotorua

There is a tendency to believe that landscapes remain unchanged. Trees and vegetation might grown or recede, to obscure or reveal, but the essential features of the landscape are permanent and unchanging. People take comfort in visiting national parks or great monuments believing that as they age the scenic beauty that they hold so dear will not. It is a comforting thought that long after we are gone, such places of natural beauty will live on. 

Nowhere is the fact that the earth and landscape is undergoing constant change more evident than in New Zealand. It is a land where seismic changes shape and reshape the landscape constantly. While there are great seismic activities elsewhere, the direct result is more obvious in New Zealand. The Bay of Plenty region is a fantastic place to observe the changing earth. Captain James Cook named the area when he came ashore to reprovision his ship and saw how well the Māori were living and his stores following his visits. 

It is a little disconcerting to see warning signs around the lake and nature paths advising walkers that the area is a thermal area and the approximate temperatures of geysers and water is near boiling. As the local say, the crust of the earth around Rotorua is very thin. Sometimes referred to as Sulphur City, there is a smell that emanates from the lake that is difficult to describe, which is produced from hydrogen sulphide. While sulphur is often unpleasant, the smell in Rotorua is not. Every once in a while, one catches a strong whiff of sulfur; however, most of the time, the smell has a distinctive earthy tone to it and is not unpleasant. 

Rotorua Museum

Artifact found in the basement of the
building following the closure of
Tudor Towers

This aspect of the local terrain has been put to good use by the New Zealand government and the local inhabitants. What is now the Rotorua Museum is a beautiful ornate Edwardian building, done in a Tudor style,  that was originally contained a bath house where one could “take the cure.” Opened in 1908, the building and area were developed as a tourist destination for people suffering from afflictions and maladies. The tour is a fascinating glimpse into tourism of a century ago. After the initial tourist phase, the baths were used by the government for wounded soldiers returning from the First World War. As medical understandings grew, and changing taste in tourism developed, the popularity of the spa declined. The plumbing in the building was ill-suited for the movement of the sediment-laden water and constant repair was needed. The building housed a famous restaurant and nightclub, the Tudor Towers, from the 1960s to the 1980s. Apparently, there are a number of stories to be told from that era. Today the museum, featuring both the history of the bath house and local Māori culture, is a welcomed introduction to both the tourist era and the indigenous population.  

Hot Lake at Whakarewarewa 

Vintage Post card of the White Terraces 

Normally I would abjure such activities, but I decided to take walk to the Māori village of Whakarewarewa, approximately three kilometers out of town. I am concerned that such shows are faux cultural tourism that minimize the actual culture of the local population. Despite this, I was intrigued by the existence of a human settlement situation in and among the thermal activity of the area. This area of New Zealand has long been a tourist destination. Famously, the area around Mount Tarawera, where 19th century European tourist came to bath in the thermal waters, was destroyed by  an eruption in 1886. The eruption, which was felt as far away as Auckland, destroyed the famous Pink and White Terraces, a favorite place of European bathers and a natural history wonder. The beauty and interests are legendary. Several surviving members of the Māori community, including early guides, came to live in the area afterwards. The tradition of Māori guides, typically females, introducing the natural beauty and customs of the area has been typical throughout the last 150 years and is still used in Whakarewarewa. Viewing several carvings, pre-contact huts and the walks through thermal areas was a day unlike many.