First impressions of Bodø

This is my first time above the Arctic Circle and I am very excited.

Bodø might be the opposite of what many people consider “European travel.” It is not old. The town was granted township status in 1816. More than that, the town was completely destroyed in 1940 during the Second World War and subsequently rebuilt (more about this in a future post). Thus, there is no walking around looking at fine old architecture and ancient monuments. Since it is above the Arctic Circle, café life is limited. Nevertheless, National Geographic Explorer listed Bodø as its top destination for 2013. The town is surrounded by dramatic mountains and the sea. It is a beautiful outpost, the northern terminus of the Norwegian train system, where tourists come to explore.

There is a midnight sun in Bodø; I stayed up until 1 a.m. my first night just to make sure. The sun rises on 2 June and sets on 10 July. It was, I sheepishly admit, one of the things I was looking forward to experiencing. Once you are here, it is a little disconcerting because there is a temptation to have meals later and I never quite feel ready to go to bed, even though I have been very tired from walking.

Bodø has a population of roughly 48,000. The people have been reserved, but not unfriendly. On my walks I have noticed a slight cultural difference. On small roads where drivers yield to walkers and cyclists, an exchange of waves would be in order in the United States. In Bodø there is rarely an acknowledgement between the two. Drivers go out of their way to stop at crosswalks for pedestrians, even if you are several feet from it. Just a sense that you might cross the street will elicit a stop from most drivers.  

Bodø from Nyholm's Redoubt  

One of my first destinations upon arrival was the Nyholms Skandse (Nyholm’s Redoubt). This small fort was built in 1810 to protect grain shipments into Bodø during the Napoleonic Wars. Since Denmark/Norway had sided with the French, Britain tried to impose a blockade on the entire coast of Norway. After the war, the fort fell into disuse, but now serves as a destination for bird watching, fishing and picnics. It offers an excellent view of Bodø from across the harbor. While there, I virtually had the fort to myself.

The walk to the Fort was interesting, if not beautiful. Bodø is an actual working down, and its wealth and population was built on industry and fishing. Along the way to the fort I passed a foundry, making manhole covers and grates for sewer drains, several quarries and (what I believe was) a seafood manufacturing plant. It is surprising to learn how many sardine tins come from Bodø. It made me wonder if any my father ate when I was a kid was from this area.

The weather has not been what I expected. Shortly before I arrived I had consulted a forecast that suggested highs in the mid-60s (Fahrenheit). I realize that this is the Arctic, but the tourism pictures and the materials I read on the internet suggested that June was the perfect month to visit. I had idyllic visions of climbing sun drenched mountains or sitting on rocks along the water to write in my journal…a comfortable respite to the three Hs of home (hazy, hot and humid). But I have not been so fortunate yet. When I left for my walk Saturday morning the temperature was 48°F (this is in line with a Norwegian newspaper report that suggested a low of 8°C or 47°F on Saturday). The wind was howling at a consistent 30km/h (18 mph). My eyes were watering for much of my walk, especially when I was walking in a direction toward the sea. Nevertheless, I pressed on. Patches of blue skies to the west, with the sun shining over distance islands were tantalizing and raised my hopes for better weather to come.  

The good news was that the weather did get a little better, but the sun was intermittent and not very warming (again, it is the Arctic). Despite this, my first hours in Bodø have proven to be interesting and educational. The town is undergoing a construction phase and the vista of the waterfront is being reshaped. Many people (including locals) have complained that the architecture is not very impressive and boring; however, once you understand the reasons it makes more sense. While the public buildings date from the 1950s, I have become enamored with several homes, which are more interesting.