Bodin Church

Although the churches of Bodø were destroyed in 1940, a short three kilometer walk will take you to the Bodin Parish Church. Situated in a beautiful setting, not too far from a small stream and a wooded area that is great for hiking, the church is in the former parish of Bodin which was later subsumed into Bodø. Originally completed circa 1240, the church evokes thoughts about what the area and life must have been like when it was built. It was been remodeled and refashioned several times. The sanctuary was enlarged in 1785 and the medieval part of the church was destroyed and rebuilt as part of the renovations of 1894. Yet, the small stone altar that dates from the 1300s is still extant.

Outside the church, there are a couple of interesting features as well. Across the road from the church is a monolith. There is no signs to indicate where it is from or what its disposition might be (is it real or a replica?); however, there is a similar Iron Age monolith (bautastein in Norwegian) on the grounds of the Nordland Museum, which was moved when the airport was built in 1952. Approximately 300 feet east of the Bodin Church there is another small monument standing alone in a small empty field. This monuments honors the memory of Soviet soldiers who died in Norway in the Second World War and (somewhat cryptically) indicates that some were buried “here.” Whether that is in Norway or specifically Bodin / Bodø, it is unclear. 

As I took this picture of this church I happened to look down and see a crumbled package of Lucky Strikes on the ground. I thought to myself, my dad would have loved this church. 

Bodø: Destroyed and Rebuilt

Travelling to Bodø today, in an airplane or cruise ship, makes the region seem a little less remote than even fifty years ago. The fjords and mountains still give a feeling or remoteness; knowing that you are in the Arctic, with the unique features of sunlight, shadows and weather, gives an other-worldliness impression to the traveler. Since this remains true today, the role the northern region of Norway played in the Second World War is all the more interesting. I have found references to the concern over continuous daylight and how that would affect the conduct of the war.

While the southern part of Norway capitulated after a short, but spirited, fight during the war, fighting went on in north for a longer time. The King, Haakon VII, and the government were able to escaped Oslo because of the sinking of the German cruiser Blücher. The badly outnumbered and outgunned Norwegian forces fought on despite the odds. King Haakon earned the respect of many Norwegians because of his determination to resist occupation (in 1905 he became the King after the dissolution of the union with Sweden). After the decisive battle at Narvik, a German victory seemed inevitable. By mid-June 1940, the King and cabinet escaped to London.

But while in the midst of the resistance, Bodø played a significant role. Its radio station, which was 

A picture of a picture in the Nordland Museum

founded in 1931, became a voice of resistance and carrying the news of a free Norway. Although bombed once with minor damage, the main attack on the city came on 27 May 1940. The German Luftwaffe dropped approximately 200 bombs, including many incendiaries, on Bodø. Because most of the houses and buildings were made of wood, damage was particularly devastating as reported in the New York Times:

The town is described as a mass of smoking ruins, houses, shops, hospitals and churches all having been razed. All the houses were built of wood and fire spread rapidly among them when incendiary bombs exploded in their midst. Water mains burst and the fire services were put out of action. (James MacDonald, New York Times, 30 May 1940)

The Nordland Museum, one of the oldest buildings
in the city, built 1903

Of the 6,000 or so residents, it is amazing that only fifteen people died in the attack, and two of those killed were British soldiers. Virtually every building in the town was damaged and 400 of the town’s 600 buildings were destroyed. It is why today there are very few buildings that predate 1940. One of the oldest buildings in the town, built in 1903, now houses Nordlandsmuseet (The Nordland Museum). In the wake of the attack, the Swedish government helped to build apartments for many of those left homeless in preparation for the winter of 1941.

King Haakon VII would become a heroic figure in Norway. His stay in exile was marked by weekly broadcasts, via the BBC, to his homeland. Two days before the attack on Bodø the New York Times published an editorial about the King:

Statue of Haakon VII in Central Bodø

Most Norwegians now live under the hobnail boot of the conqueror, their liberties gone, their property confiscated, their leading citizens subject to arbitrary arrest and execution from day to day. But King Haakon still insists that we will not leave his Arctic capital as long as one inch of his country remains Norwegian. At this rate his memory may yet outlast and outshine those of his Viking namesakes of long ago. (New York Times, 25 May 1940)

He returned home from exile in 1945, a much admired person. There is a statue of him in central Bodø as well.

The rebuilding of Bodø would continue until 1959. Many complain that the architecture of the city is drab and does not inspire enthusiasm. This is perhaps true; however, when there are upwards of 5,000 homeless people to take care of before grueling winters aesthetics are not the priority. It is true that the churches and public buildings suffer from the same malady. Yet, given the circumstances and the time period when reconstruction occurred, the architecture makes sense. To the skeptic I urge an examination beyond the public buildings. Many of the homes in and around Bodø are fashionable and practical. The only shame is that the prewar Bodø was so thoroughly devastated.

First impressions of Bodø

This is my first time above the Arctic Circle and I am very excited.

Bodø might be the opposite of what many people consider “European travel.” It is not old. The town was granted township status in 1816. More than that, the town was completely destroyed in 1940 during the Second World War and subsequently rebuilt (more about this in a future post). Thus, there is no walking around looking at fine old architecture and ancient monuments. Since it is above the Arctic Circle, café life is limited. Nevertheless, National Geographic Explorer listed Bodø as its top destination for 2013. The town is surrounded by dramatic mountains and the sea. It is a beautiful outpost, the northern terminus of the Norwegian train system, where tourists come to explore.

There is a midnight sun in Bodø; I stayed up until 1 a.m. my first night just to make sure. The sun rises on 2 June and sets on 10 July. It was, I sheepishly admit, one of the things I was looking forward to experiencing. Once you are here, it is a little disconcerting because there is a temptation to have meals later and I never quite feel ready to go to bed, even though I have been very tired from walking.

Bodø has a population of roughly 48,000. The people have been reserved, but not unfriendly. On my walks I have noticed a slight cultural difference. On small roads where drivers yield to walkers and cyclists, an exchange of waves would be in order in the United States. In Bodø there is rarely an acknowledgement between the two. Drivers go out of their way to stop at crosswalks for pedestrians, even if you are several feet from it. Just a sense that you might cross the street will elicit a stop from most drivers.  

Bodø from Nyholm's Redoubt  

One of my first destinations upon arrival was the Nyholms Skandse (Nyholm’s Redoubt). This small fort was built in 1810 to protect grain shipments into Bodø during the Napoleonic Wars. Since Denmark/Norway had sided with the French, Britain tried to impose a blockade on the entire coast of Norway. After the war, the fort fell into disuse, but now serves as a destination for bird watching, fishing and picnics. It offers an excellent view of Bodø from across the harbor. While there, I virtually had the fort to myself.

The walk to the Fort was interesting, if not beautiful. Bodø is an actual working down, and its wealth and population was built on industry and fishing. Along the way to the fort I passed a foundry, making manhole covers and grates for sewer drains, several quarries and (what I believe was) a seafood manufacturing plant. It is surprising to learn how many sardine tins come from Bodø. It made me wonder if any my father ate when I was a kid was from this area.

The weather has not been what I expected. Shortly before I arrived I had consulted a forecast that suggested highs in the mid-60s (Fahrenheit). I realize that this is the Arctic, but the tourism pictures and the materials I read on the internet suggested that June was the perfect month to visit. I had idyllic visions of climbing sun drenched mountains or sitting on rocks along the water to write in my journal…a comfortable respite to the three Hs of home (hazy, hot and humid). But I have not been so fortunate yet. When I left for my walk Saturday morning the temperature was 48°F (this is in line with a Norwegian newspaper report that suggested a low of 8°C or 47°F on Saturday). The wind was howling at a consistent 30km/h (18 mph). My eyes were watering for much of my walk, especially when I was walking in a direction toward the sea. Nevertheless, I pressed on. Patches of blue skies to the west, with the sun shining over distance islands were tantalizing and raised my hopes for better weather to come.  

The good news was that the weather did get a little better, but the sun was intermittent and not very warming (again, it is the Arctic). Despite this, my first hours in Bodø have proven to be interesting and educational. The town is undergoing a construction phase and the vista of the waterfront is being reshaped. Many people (including locals) have complained that the architecture is not very impressive and boring; however, once you understand the reasons it makes more sense. While the public buildings date from the 1950s, I have become enamored with several homes, which are more interesting.