On the Trail of Sherlock: one last post from my 2013 European sojourn

My 2013 sojourn to Europe had a subtext, at least in my own mind. I have been re-reading several of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s classic Sherlock Holmes stories while on the trip. Meanwhile I have also visited a few places that have some connection to either the author or the great detective. It is odd that despite the fact that these are fictional stories and characters there are a number of places and sites that commemorate Sherlock Holmes.

The Sherlock Holmes Museum - 221B Baker Street, London

In some ways I am embarrassed to admit that I visited 221B Baker Street while in London, call it a guilty pleasure. Of course, this was the iconic address of the sleeping rooms inhabited by Holmes and Watson for many years. Today, the building houses the Sherlock Holmes Museum. Although it is a piece of kitsch, the building itself was a late nineteenth century boarding house complete with 13 steps to the first floor, which is stocked with period pieces to makes it look as if Holmes and Watson once lived there. Sitting by the fire, imagining yourself in consultation with Sherlock is a thrill for many fans who visit the museum. It is very popular and it makes me wonder how many visitors have actually read any of the stories as opposed to seeing one of the Robert Downey, Jr. films that deviates far away from the original story lines.

One aspect of the Holmes stories that provides fascination for many is the references to locations in England, Scotland and throughout the continent. One gets the sense that Conan Doyle’s love of travel and exploration by his descriptions and references. But it is in London, in the dingy days of industrialized pollution, that most of the stories that place. The references to the great fogs, composed of “greasy, heavy brown swirl still drifting past us and condensing in  oily drops upon the window panes” (“The Adventure of the Bruce-Partington Places”), gives a sense of late nineteenth century London that was dirty and gritty. Walking the streets of London today, one can still see the effects of the so-called fogs.

Despite this, it is clear that like Holmes, Conan Doyle loved London. The references to the infinite variety and order within London details his admiration. London itself becomes a character in many of the stories, such as The Sign of Four. Note that in “The Red-Headed League” Holmes acknowledges his penchant for knowing every corner of the city. As much as Holmes loves the city, he was distrustful of the countryside. Holmes, referring to the farms and rural residences of the countryside, says to Watson:

You look at these scattered houses, and you are impressed by their beauty. I look at them, and the only thought that comes to mind is a feeling of their isolation and of the impunity with which crimes may be committed there…This always fills me with a certain horror. It is my belief, Watson, founded upon my experience, that the lowest and vilest alleys in London do not present a more dreadful record of sin than does the smiling and beautiful countryside (“The Adventures of the Cooper Beeches”).

Sherlock Holmes Statue - Picardy Place, Edinburgh

It is in Scotland, specifically Edinburgh, that one can find the origins of Holmes. Conan Doyle was born at 11 Picardy Place in that city and a statue of Holmes, reportedly considering the grave of his creator, figures prominently in the square. At one corner of the roundabout is the Conan Doyle Pub, which honors the author’s literary legacy.

This is just an introduction to the links between Conan Doyle, Sherlock Holmes and my sojourns. I hope to bring further updates in the future, perhaps with a visit to Reichenbach Falls someday. Nevertheless, it is not far from the truth to say that Holmes, in some part, inspires this blog. In “A Scandal in Bohemia,” Holmes tells Watson, “You see, but you do not observe.” In my travels, I hope to be more Holmes than Watson.