Riding Bus 20

The bus that runs between Dublin and Galway for Bus Eireann is designated Route 20. There is an express bus (X20), which only stops in a few major destinations; however, the regular service winds through many small towns and back roads. These buses are well used, but not overly crowded. A few years ago, as I was riding Bus 20, I began writing down notes on each town, what was there, facilities, hotels, and pubs to help me select a town to spend a few days exploring and relaxing. It has become a way to gauge the economic health of the midsection of Ireland. From one year to the next, I can note the prominence of restaurants, cafes and pubs.

This year my ride from Dublin to Athlone was on a bus that was about half full, on a Friday during the mid-to-late morning. We left Busáras (the main station) at 10:30 and made our way along the docks before turning into the tunnel heading to the airport. As we approached the terminal, there was a good sized protest march by Aer Lingus cabin crews, supported by the pilots. The cabin crew were striking for better working conditions and formed a long line marching to the airport. The strike disrupted many flights that day.

As we departed Busáras there were two elderly men sitting at the back of the bus having a lively conversation. As the bus got underway in earnest, the conversation was muffled by the sound of the highway. I could hear the men talking, but I had no idea what was being said. But in their Irish accents it was as if the two mean, with worn faces had stepped off a movie screen.

After a few stops at intersections and a school, the bus came into Enfield. The town has many well-kept houses with nice gardens. The bus stop is at the Street Side Café, a seemingly inviting place to enjoy a sandwich and a tea after a bus ride. The town also has a canal or river with a walking path that runs on the western edge of town, as well as a train station.

Kilbeggan has a whisky distillery on the edge of town that is a tempting tourist destination. As we pulled into town, the bus sounds die down enough so that I can once again understand the conversation between the two men at the back of the bus:

“How old is she now?”

[I could not understand the answer]

“I don’t believe it… (long pause) …she’s a pretty girl.”

The bus made its way through Moate, an old market town, and then onto Athlone. As we pulled into the bus station, the conversation once again was audible. One of the men was lamenting the changes in the world: “It’s a different way of life…they don’t take the time to talk.”