Where Journeys Begin (and/or End)

For any traveler familiar with the United States, the iconic Route 66 instinctively draws us to exploration. The legendary “Mother Road,” which runs from Chicago to Santa Monica, winds its way through eight states and beckons us west. Its legendary status has inspired song, television and more important travelers. Its 2448 miles contains some of the most famous Americana sites that grace postcards and magazine articles.

Historical marker on
East Adams Street 

Although officially decommissioned in 1985, people and legend keep the memory of the road alive. On East Adams Street in Chicago, not far from Michigan Avenue, there is a marker that denotes the place where Route 66 began on its journey westward. With the better part of a day to kill in the city, I took a trip for which the route was not designed: I decided to walk the first part, or last depending on geographic persuasion (I note that several guides have a west-to-east orientation). I had limited expectations but decided that it might be the start of a new adventure and a goal.

As I turned the corner from Michigan Avenue onto East Adams Street. I saw a three-generation Asian family posing for photographs at the sign. The grandparents were taking turns holding the granddaughter while posing on an otherwise nondescript downtown street. The mother had a selfie stick, but I am not exactly sure what she was trying to accomplish with it. I waited for them to finish their various poses before snapping a photo myself and beginning my trip west.

Wearing my 1914 replica Cubs hat, which I calculate to be about 17 years old, and my hiking boots, I knew my journey would not be arduous. Yet I was trying to beat the threat of impending rain showers. I had gone no more than a block when a guy wearing a Cubs sweatshirt, talking on his cell phone and walking toward me pointed directly at me. He interrupted his conversation, and said emphatically, “Go Cubs!” It took me a moment to process what was going on, but chuckled afterwards when I thought to myself if this guy did that to every Cubs fan in downtown Chicago he would never finish his conversation.

Within the first quarter of a mile or so, there are a several classic Chicago business. At the corner of State Street the Palmer House Hotel and the Berghoff Restaurant hearken to an earlier time. The Berghoff is a classic German restaurant that rose to prominence during the Chicago Exposition of 1893. The bar/restaurant opened in 1898 and sandwiches were given away when patrons bought a mug of beer. The owner was advertising his brothers’ Dortmund-style beer which made in Indiana. Of course during Prohibition Berghoff was not allowed to sell its beer, but focused instead sold near-beer and root beer, which is still available today. After prohibition was repealed, the restaurant resumed the serving of beer and had liquor permit number 1 for the city of Chicago. These days the food and ambiance are the primary draws rather than the beer. Nevertheless, the place oozes nostalgia and history.

There are many people, more so than in years past, asking for spare change these days. A symptom of Chicago’s economic plight. As with many cities in the eastern half of the United States, the melted snow has revealed a great deal of trash and debris that has yet to be cleaned.

St Patrick Church with the statue "Grainne" in the foreground

Chicago is obviously a much newer than many cities on the east coast. The Great Fire of 1871 brings that point home more readily. Very few buildings survived the fire. One building that did survive is St. Patrick’s Church at 700 West Adams, at the corner of South DesPlaines. Built between 1852 and 1856, the church is closely associated with the Irish community in Chicago. Across DesPlaines, in Heritage Green Park, there is a statue of “Grainne” a gift from Chicago’s sister city Galway, Ireland.

As you near Ogden there are several small parks, where pick-up games of softball are still played on Sunday morning. Row houses, both new and old, occupy tree-lined blocks as you walk west out of the downtown section of Chicago. Epiphany Church, a congregation that appears to have fallen on hard times, is at the corner of Ashland and Adams. At Ogden Avenue within sight of the United Center (home of the Chicago Bulls and Blackhawks), Route 66 took a left to head southwest out of the city and toward Springfield and points west. I, instead, made my way over the West Jackson Boulevard, which is one-way, heading east to return to the city. Turning back to the city, the Sears Tower, arguably the tallest building in the United States, becomes much more noticeable than when you are standing next to it.

I walked by the Bays English Muffin faculty and, even though it was closed on Sunday morning, there was a residual, pleasant smell of yeast in the air.

Neon sign at Athenian Candle Co. 

It is hard to observe classic Americana this near to Chicago; however, as you near downtown more odd and interesting places begin to pop up. One such place, at the corner of Halstead, is the Athenian Candle Company in Greek Town. The business opened in 1922 and served the liturgical needs of the Orthodox community throughout the United States. What makes the business noticeable to the traveler is the great signage and neon light that hangs on the corner.

The most iconic place along Jackson is Lou Mitchell’s, a restaurant and coffee shop that has been open since 1923. Located near Union Station, I got to the restaurant just as the Sunday brunch rush was starting. I got there just in time, after I was seated a substantial line formed to wait for tables. Because it was so busy, and I was by myself, I was seated at a communal counter with seven other people. It was a frenetic pace in the restaurant; I nursed a cup of coffee, advertised as the finest in town, while I waited to order. Waiting afforded me an opportunity to watch and observe. I was curious about several boxes lining the front window until I realized that they contained oranges for fresh-squeezed juice. I watched several orders of fresh doughnut holes go by. My server, who seemed befuddled by the rush, took my order and I had a leisurely lunch despite about chaos.

Lou Mitchell's on West Jackson

After lunch, I completed the walk ending, once again, at Michigan Avenue. My trip consisted of a total of 2.3 miles each way. I was a little disappointed that I did not even cover 0.1% of the entirety of Route 66. Nevertheless, as I walked along the streets of Chicago I thought about walking other portions of the fabled highway. The pleasures of trips considered.