Noticing History in Hobart

One of the great benefits of touring a destination where you know several people is that they are familiarly with all the shortcuts and have great insights. It is difficult to make any definitive statements about Hobart given the limited amount of time I spent in the city; however, my impression is of a city rich in history and interests. As is my habit, I noticed many of the smaller historical sites that tell a rich and complex tale of a city, its people and Tasmania.

The one destination that I considered imperative was a visit to the gates of the Beaumaris Zoo. Much like the Berlin Zoo, which I visited earlier this year, it is a place where the folly of humans has had is duly recorded. The zoo, which has been closed for more than 75 years, was the site of interesting stories, such as the attempted escape of a polar bear in 1926. More importantly, Beaumaris Zoo was the location where the last known thylacine died in 1936. More popularly know as Tasmanian Tigers, thylacines were intriguing animals that were drove into extinction. Although there are rumors and hope that there are a few thylacines wondering around the wilds of Tasmania, there is very little good evidence to suggest this is the case. The zoo closed the year following the death of the last thylacine.  

Another tragic event, commemorated high above the city on trails of Mt. Wellington (kunanyi), is the fate of George Radford. Competing in a “go-as-you-please” race to the pinnacle, and return, in September 1903. Radford was caught in snowstorm and perished. Today, a walking and mountain bike trail that meanders through a fern forest is named in his honor. As I walked the trail through the forest, the knowledge that Charles Darwin also walked the same mountain in 1836 gave me much to think about as well.

On a much less somber note, the monuments and signage on docks of Hobart demonstrates the city has several connections with the rest of the world despite its remoteness. This is particularly true of the signing remembering the Jam Factory of Henry Jones. In many ways, the business ethics and manners mirrored the practices of many of Jones’s contemporary. He was very successful and his company’s effort meant that fruit grown in Tasmania, turned into jams and pulp, were consumed around the world. Yet, his treatment of workers were questionable and reflects many of the excesses of the industrial period. Along Hunter Street sits the remains of the factory, now repurposed. His product named, IXL, referred to his personal statement: “I excel at everything I do.” Yet despite his bravado, Jones’s treatment of workers and questionable business practices are remembered at the docks as well.