Monday, October 13, 2014

Rain, Books and Lewes

Biblion Used Book & Rare Fins in Lewes, Delaware
A rainy weekend at the Delaware shore brought me once again to Biblion Used Books & Rare Finds in Lewes. This cozy and comfortable shop offers an eclectic selection of books, journal and note cards. When the weather is nice, the sign in the front of the store usually has a good literary quote.

It was by chance that I made my periodic visit to Biblion on the same day I read an article in the Guardian about the “weird and wonderful bookshops” around the world. The article reminds me of some of the great stores I have visited and the treasures I have procured. 

Saturday, October 11, 2014

My Life with Trains (Part 2) Nostalgia

I grew up in a railroad family; both my father and my grandfather worked for the same small railroad, the Kentucky & Indiana Railroad, better known as the K&I. Before the final sale of the K&I in late 1981, my dad transferred to the L&N (Louisville and Nashville Railroad). Both of these railroads are no more. The L&N as a separate entity disappeared into the larger corporate name of CSX. The fortunes of the K&I, its workers and my grandfather were key topics of discussion in my early childhood.
Although the yards of the K&I are still in the Portland section of Louisville, the only substantial reminder of the old company is a railroad bridge, the K&I Terminal Bridge, from Portland to New Albany, Indiana. When I was growing up, we would often cross into southern Indiana over the bridge. I often remember it as a nerve-racking adventure. The bridge was high and the paths for automobiles were narrow. It seemed that there were only inches on either side for the car to pass through the blackened steel fences.
Lady watching the model train around our
Christmas tree (still from family 8mm film)
From my young perspective, the best thing to come from that old railroad was a dirty old dog. I do not actually remember it, but the family legend was that my dad called my mother and asked if it was alright to bring her home. When she arrived, the dog, which had been hanging around the yards for a few days looking for food was filthy. It took several baths to clean the oil and soot out of her fur. That dog, despite her humble beginning, would go on to become one of the legends of family. Given the name Lady, she became very protective of me. She climbed on top of my toy box each night and waited for me to go to sleep before creeping out of the room, signaling my parents that I was, indeed, asleep. She was a trusted, and loved, member of the family.
On another occasion the K&I yards offered an abortive miracle. My father, the religious man he was, was transfixed and perplexed by a question my brother once asked. We have driven down to the K&I yards so that my father could speak with my grandfather about something. (Perhaps it was a ruse to get out of the house) It had been a longstanding practice to see my grandfather at work. He was kind and always glad to see us; however, on this day, my brother and I were told to sit in the truck (a 1950 Ford Pickup) and wait because it was too dangerous to go in to the shop where my grandfather worked. While sitting there I asked my younger brother if he had noticed the little plastic crucifix that was propped up on the side of the building.
When my dad returned my brother asked, “Can we go around to the side of the building and see Jesus?” The look on my dad’s face was enough to tell me what he was thinking. Either that his young son was having visions of the Christ appearing at, of all places, the rail yards of the Kentucky & Indiana Railway, or he was having hallucinations with religious overtones. Either way, this was something monumental. I relished the moment for a split second. I enjoyed the confusion; the irony of something mundane being mistaken for something extraordinary. But in an instant, my dad gave me a look. All of the sudden I was being considered with suspicion. What had I done or said to lead my brother to assume that Jesus was inhabiting the side of a building at the K&I? My father’s stare became more focused on me, “What the hell is he talking about?”
I explained that there was a plastic crucifix on the side of the building where my grandfather worked. My dad drove around to look at it, one of the arms, the right one if I am not mistaken, was missing – probably broken off after a fall. My brother asked if we could have it and dad replied that he would rather buy us one. This one had been exposed to the elements and coal soot, and was broken.
Abandoned rail line behind the library in Lewes, Delaware
The disappearance and history of railroads continues to interest me. Although one of the great nineteenth century inventions, its utility and allure continues well into the twenty-first century. Railroad archaeology, abandoned stations, former right-of-ways converted into paths for walkers and cyclists, and historic excursion rides are all evidence of the profound effect the railroad industry has had on the modern world. For me, it is a reminder of a bygone, yet personal, past that evokes a great deal of nostalgia.



Monday, September 29, 2014

Exploring Lancaster PA

Penn Square at night
Several years ago, I was traveling with a friend in Europe. During the trip we spent each weekend away from the program. When we reconvene on Monday I have asked my friend, “How was your weekend?” His response was, “Ah! The charms of (the named town) are somewhat limited.” For years this somewhat pretentious phrase reverberated in my mind as a place where there is little to do or see. I suppose, in many ways, it is how I (mistakenly) viewed Lancaster, Pennsylvania as well.
To my surprise Lancaster is much more than simply kitschy tourist destination that capitalizes on it Amish heritage. Beyond the notable and interesting events that took place in the city, today there are number of destinations that belie my initial impressions. Our twenty-four hours in Lancaster was a good reminder of the relationship between food and culture. Chief among our destinations was the Lancaster Central Market, a farmers market in downtown. Dating from 1780, and housed in the same building for 125 years, the farmers market in Lancaster is a great destination for locally-grown and organic food. 
Lancaster Central Market
In addition to the farmers market we were able to sample few of Lancaster's fantastic restaurant and cafĂ©. Chief among our discoveries was La Dolce Vita Courthouse Bakery, a fine Italian bakery and coffee shop. After having a cinnamon almond twist and a coffee, I decided that it was the bakery and coffee shop of our desires; beautiful, yet low-key.
La Dolce Vita
Despite our gastronomic adventures, a demonstration at Penn Square reminded us of the importance of food not only to those enjoy it in abundance, but to those who are less fortunate. On display was an entire blanket of perfectly good food rescued from dumpsters. It reminded me of a powerful book from a few years ago, Waste: Uncovering the Global Food Scandal, and the amount of food that fails to make it from plough to plate.





Sunday, September 21, 2014

Newspapers: Now and Then

One of my friends told me that he purchased a home-delivery subscription to the Washington Post. Noting how reasonable it was, he said that he wanted his daughters to see him reading a newspaper. While he could read the Post on his phone or a tablet, they might not know what he was reading. He knew quite well that his daughters might never hold or read an actual newspaper. More than likely, they would read some electronic version of the news and it will look vastly different from what we would call a newspaper. Nonetheless, he wanted his daughters to see that reading the newspaper was something he valued and, whatever form it took, they would do the same.
Steinman Park, Lancaster, Pennsylvania 
It was something of a coincidence that the following weekend I would find myself in Steinman Park in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, where a bronze statue of a man reading a copy of the Lancaster Sunday News, sits near the offices of the local newspaper. The man has a pipe in his suit jacket as he reads a copy of the 16 September 1925 edition of the paper, turned to a page with the headline, “Workmen Leave Permanent Record of Liquor Strike in 1815.” Since the article appeared during prohibition, it makes the story all the more intriguing. Laying beside the man on a bench sits two more editions pf the local newspaper waiting to be read, with men walking on the moon (1969) and the accident at Three Mile Island (1979).

I like newspapers as well. One of my great pleasures is sitting in a library thumbing through old newspapers or skimming microfilm copies. Some of the stories are incredible. It is not that I disparage new technology; in fact, it offers wider access to many of these great stories for those who look. But the format of how news is delivered does make me wonder what will become of these great archives and the treasures they hold.

Monday, September 15, 2014

Neon Signs

Ever since I heard an interview, on Thinking Allowed, with Christoph Ribbat, neon signs and lights have caught my attention more often. I have been attracted by their beauty and mysterious glow, but had not really thought about their social significance. Subsequently, I bought and read his book and have thought more about the place of these lights in our cultures. My visit to the Museum of Vancouver, with multiple restored neon lights, was a great introduction to the use, construction and preservation of neon. A segment in the recent Ric Sebak film, A History of Pittsburgh in 17 Objects focuses on the importance of neon as a dying art form.
Rather than creating multiple blog entries for newly discovered neon sign, I have created a page dedicated to some of my photographs of neon signs and the stories behind them. I will update as I find more signs, new places and interesting stories.
My collection of neon signs can be found at: http://curioussojourner.blogspot.com/p/neon-signs.html

Saturday, August 30, 2014

August Explorations

Spence and I had a good week exploring some classic Americana sites. We had lunch at Eddie’s Diner, Wilkes Barre, Pennsylvania, that looks like a classic diner that has been remodeled, updated and has had substantial additions. In the original section, there are three booths to the right and a cashier stand with two additional booths to the left. There are 18 affixed stools along the straight counter, with a banner behind the counter noting the 25th anniversary of the diner (in 2012). The primary color scheme of the diner is a dark pink set against the stainless steel fixtures. Eddie’s Diner offered Spencer is first opportunity to try Birch Beer, which I think her enjoyed. The diner was busy and the servers knew many of the patrons by name.
The following day we made our way to Crystal Grottoes Caverns just outside Boonsboro, Maryland. The cave was discovered on 18 September 1920 when workers, excavating limestone to build Route 34, broke through and felt cool air emerging from the ground. After exploring the caverns, excavations were halted with the provision that the cave would be open to the public. The cave’s first day of business was 2 April 1922 when tourists were charged 7 cents to enter. Because no humans entered the cave until the twentieth century, many of the formations are pristine. This small roadside attraction, the only caves open to the general public in Maryland, is both fun and educational.
Just a few miles away stands the first completed memorial dedicated to George Washington on South Mountain.  Washington Monument State Park, located in Middletown, Maryland, was built by the citizens of Boonsboro on 4 July 1827. The more famous monument, the marble obelisk in Washington DC, was built between 1848 and 1884. Standing fifteen feet high at the end of the day, the Maryland monument was completed in September of that year can stood thirty feet. It has fallen into disrepair from time to time and was most recently rebuilt by the Civilian Conservation Corp in 1936.
A fellow visitor at the
Washington Monument
Holsum Bread Advertisement at Keystone Stores
The monument, which you can climb to the top of, offers a beautiful view of the valley below. Unfortunately, on the day we visited, the mountain was shrouded in clouds and fog. Every so often, the clouds would momentarily part to offer a tantalizing view of the valley below.
Our week ended with an exploration of the small borough of Pine Grove Pennsylvania. Among the interesting sites in the town was the Pine Grove Theatre, opened in 1910 and the Keystone Stores, an old grocery store that still has many of the old advertisements in its windows.







Tuesday, August 12, 2014

Grover Cleveland’s Boyhood Home

I had a few minutes to kill on a Monday morning in August and decided to seek out the boyhood home of the only American president to serve non-consecutive terms in office. Located on Academy Street Cleveland’s home in Fayetteville, NY still looks much the same as it did in the late nineteenth century.